[200q20v] Re: 91 200 20v Pancake
C1J1Miller at aol.com
C1J1Miller at aol.com
Tue Dec 12 22:45:50 EST 2000
In a message dated 12/12/00 8:32:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, WARATAP at aol.com
writes:
> Best body shop is Autometric Collision in Royal Oak, Michigan. They do THE
> best work (even better than their other shops). They know these cars and
> will accurately figure out what needs to be done to make the car "whole."
> 248.398.0200 Ask for Greg or Andy.
>
I used these guys many years ago on a 4kq; they did pretty good work, but I
had to go back several times to get it "right". Each time, I'd show them
what was wrong; the shop foreman would agree, and have it re-done (shrinking
paint showing "cracking" under the clearcoat; overspray; missing part; etc.).
Once completed, yes, very high quality.
> > 3) Does anyone know what salvage value of these cars typically is? All
> > mechanical hardware should be perfectly fine, including a new set of
> > Euro-Headlights, 3B motor / trans, Hoppen Stage I ECU, H&R Springs, Koni
> > Sport Shocks, SS Brake lines, new Hydraulic pump, new fuel pump, new
TBV,,
>
> > new Bomb, new Brake Pads, etc etc etc. I've heard rumors that the
engines
>
> > go for 2-3k, so will the insurance company charge me that much or more
to
> > buy it back from them?
>
>
> Don't know. Salvage is usually 10% of what bluebook or the insurance co.
> thinks it's worth. In Michigan, you can't buy it back directly. Only
> licensed salvage companies can do that.
>
I'm not certain that is true. You own the car, not the insurance company.
If they total it out, they purchase the car from you. You should be able to
negotiate a reduced settlement from them, with the understanding that it
won't be repaired/rebuilt. Don't trust the insurance company's word on
this, check it out.
chris
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