[200q20v] Re: 91 200 20v Pancake

C1J1Miller at aol.com C1J1Miller at aol.com
Tue Dec 12 22:45:50 EST 2000


In a message dated 12/12/00 8:32:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, WARATAP at aol.com 
writes:

> Best body shop is Autometric Collision in Royal Oak, Michigan.  They do THE 
>  best work (even better than their other shops).  They know these cars and 
>  will accurately figure out what needs to be done to make the car "whole." 
>  248.398.0200 Ask for Greg or Andy.
>  

I used these guys many years ago on a 4kq; they did pretty good work, but I 
had to go back several times to get it "right".  Each time, I'd show them 
what was wrong; the shop foreman would agree, and have it re-done (shrinking 
paint showing "cracking" under the clearcoat; overspray; missing part; etc.). 
 Once completed, yes, very high quality.

>  > 3) Does anyone know what salvage value of these cars typically is?  All 
>  > mechanical hardware should be perfectly fine, including a new set of 
>  > Euro-Headlights, 3B motor / trans, Hoppen Stage I ECU, H&R Springs, Koni 
>  > Sport Shocks, SS Brake lines, new Hydraulic pump, new fuel pump, new 
TBV,, 
> 
>  > new Bomb, new Brake Pads, etc etc etc.  I've heard rumors that the 
engines 
> 
>  > go for 2-3k, so will the insurance company charge me that much or more 
to 
>  > buy it back from them?
>  
>  
>  Don't know.  Salvage is usually 10% of what bluebook or the insurance co. 
>  thinks it's worth.  In Michigan, you can't buy it back directly.  Only 
>  licensed salvage companies can do that.
>  

I'm not certain that is true.  You own the car, not the insurance company.  
If they total it out, they purchase the car from you.  You should be able to 
negotiate a reduced settlement from them, with the understanding that it 
won't be repaired/rebuilt.    Don't trust the insurance company's word on 
this, check it out.
chris



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