[200q20v] Heated door lock

[Thomas J. Donohue, Jr.]

Phil..and everyone else who responded...thanks.  Don't know what I would do
without everyone pitching in the way you do!  Tom

Phil Rose wrote:

> At 6:33 PM -0400 9/3/00, Thomas J. Donohue, Jr. wrote:
> >Recently purchased a 91 200q20v wagon.  PO told me the outer drivers
> >door lock had ceased to function shortly before he sold it to me and he
> >didn't know why.  Now I know.  Took the beast apart today and found that
> >the appx. 1" diameter serrated metal housing on the outside of the lock
> >cylinder that the nylon swivel bushing snaps into (the part held on by a
> >circlip and which houses the spring) has broken into two pieces.
>
> Some time ago, Chris Miller responded (as follows below) to a similar
> question. I should let him speak for himself, but I doubt the information
> is any less valid today than it was a couple of years ago when I archived
> it. Make note of Chris's website URL. It possibly has sionce been more
> updated on this subject; you'll find his website a good general source of
> info on the '91 200q. I haven't done this lock repair myself, but paid for
> having it done on my son's '89 100.
>
> Phil R.
>
> *****************************
> In a message dated 11/18/98 09:47:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, grega at pobox.com
> writes:
>
> > The first one involves the driver's door. Wife comes in, tells me the car
> >  won't lock and unlock from the outside driver's door. I go check it out and
> >  find that the alarm will enable and disable with the key, but it feels like
> >  a lock rod popped off the lock cylinder lever. Vacuum system is not
> >  activated by the key, but the alarm sure is. Everything works fine from the
> >  passenger side and from inside.
>
> Common problem; the lock cylinder turns a piece of pot metal that activates
> the lock/unlock function.  The metal piece also has a geared piece that
> activates the alarm.  It fatigues over time and snaps.  Don't wait too long,
> or you could conceivably be crawling in through the trunk and trying to lift a
> door lock button through the ski sack once the passenger side breaks...
> The replacement part has been re-engineered by Audi and is stamped steel.  You
> also need to replace the actual lock cylinder but can transfer the tumblers
> across from your old cylinder, thus keeping the same door key.  Details and a
> couple cheezy pictures here:
>
> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Door Lock Repair
>
> Call the Audi dealer, and tell them what happened.  They'll give you the
> repair kit including a new design locking arm and a key
> cylinder that matches it.  Specify L or R door... Check these part numbers
> before using.
>
> 893837287D  Carrier
> 893837061B  Lock Cyl
> N 0124111   Lockring
> I reused the lock ring on mine.
> this might also be a good time to fix that front speaker, as it needs to be
> removed to fix the lock...
>
> ############
>
> the parts actually are very easy to get...just go down to the dealer.  I
> had this exact same thing go wrong about 3 months ago.  here are the parts
> i bought from the dealer (Barrier Motors, Bellevue WA):
> (1) 893-837-287-C carrier         $9.38  supersedes 893-837-287-A
> (1)        -288-C                 $9.38                    -288-A
> (1) 893-837-061-C lock cylinder  $20.42             893-837-061
> (1)        -062-C                $20.42
> (2) N-012-411-1   lockring        $1.05ea
> all told, parts for L&R doors came to $67.01 including 8.6% washington
> state sales tax.  took me about 2 hours to do the driver-side door, once i
> got all the tools in place.
>
> other notes
> *  the carrier is now made of stamped steel instead of cast pot-metal.
> this is the actual piece that breaks.  since the new design interfaces with
> the lock cylinder in a different way, you need new lock cylinders too.
> *  where the lock cylinders were identical L&R before, now they are distinct
> *  the lock cylinder does not come with tumblers (wafers).  you must
> carefully move them from your old cylinder to the new one--you'll want to
> do that, unless you like the GM system of separate ignition and door keys.
> *  the screws holding the door arm rest aren't--they're 4mm allen
> socket-head screws.
> *  note how many shims are installed on lower left and lower right corners
> between inner and outer door shells.  you have to get this right or the
> door might leak afterwards
> *  once you separate the inner and outer door frames, keep the door just
> barely open (from the car).  rest the forward end of the inner frame on the
> door sill;  use a jack stand to hold the rear end.
> *  fix any busted lights (window, seat memory, or mirror switches) while
> you're in there, though it isn't too tough to get back to this stuff in the
> future
> *  don't forget to reinstall the foam water shield over the door lock
> assembly--you'll have to disassemble the inner and outer door frames if you
> forget (don't ask)
>
> *********************************
> *  Phil & Judy Rose           Rochester, NY  *
> *        mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net       *
> *********************************
>
>