[200q20v] RE: Suspension setup

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

I'll insert some btdt.


> Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 15:27:50 -0400
> To: <b.m.benz at prodigy.net>
> Subject: Suspension set up
> 
> Hi Bernie,
> I have a 1989 200Q.  I purchased this from a person who set up the
> suspension as follows:
> 
> Konis all set at the firmest setting
>>IMO, unless these Konis are very old and worn, the firmest setting is way
>>beyond critical damping for this spring/mass system, and will reallly slow
>>down the rebound recovery.  Critical damping, the optimum, will return the
>>suspension to static position in the shortest time without overshoot.  I'd
>>start by setting the adjustment just 1 turn firmer than wide open, and
>>incriment a half turn at a time from there, if necessary.

I go the other way.  If you have the firmest setting (that's 2.5turns out of 
2.5 turns) you have effectively closed off the valving all together.  Always 
figure on konis that you have 1.5 turns in .5 turn increments, throw away the 
firmest and the lightest settings.  As a rule you will find the best koni 
performance at 1.5-2.0 turns from the lightest.  The problem with konis is 
that they are hydraulic, a better avenue (and faster reacting shock, but non 
adjustable) would be the Bilstein HD, which is a gas shock with better 
rebound properties than the konis.  In stages, I've done the HD fronts and 
koni rears, which is acceptable until the rears fail.

> Stock springs with spacers removed or replaced with shorter spacers, not too
> sure
>>The front suspension upper spring perch uses a rubber damper ring, available
>>in 3 thicknesses, 3/8, 5/8, and 3/4", intended for equalizing ride height,
>>side to side.  No adjustment on the rear.

Didn't know this was public knowlege.  I use the shortest ones you can.  The 
rears would do well with a coil over conversion, especially with the torsen 
cars.  You will also find that the rear goes way-lo compared to the fronts 
with stock springs, something that seems to be unique to the Bilstein 
applications.  You can go really stiff in the rear with a linear rate spring 
and not upset the ride quality of the car.  You touch the front, you will 
fight bumpsteer forever.  On the 44 chassis cars, get the 6 swaybar bushings 
replaced too before you align, it's the best 100bux you'll spend on the front 
end.  Don't forget to check the lower control arm inner bushings as well for 
separation from the center sleeve.  


> 16x8 ( I think) A8 rims, the ones that came on the 98 or 99 modes, five
> spoke
> Dunlop SP5000 205/55/16 Zrated.  rubbing a little on left rear since I
> replaced the p7000 50 series, seems to have less clearance on the left rear
> than the right rear, is this normal?

Er, the A8 wheels in 16's were x7 not by 8.  The 17's were x8.  For a x7 the 
205/55 is the best tire for this setup, tho I've seen 225/50 run on them as 
well.  Very tight fender clearance going wider than the 205


> I think the car could be better for instance I had a 85 4000Q with Boge TG's
> and Eibachs with Bridgestone re930 on stock, I think 14" wheels, that car
> felt so much better, pure driving pleasure..
> 
> The car I drive now is too firm, wallows over  one sided bumps in the road.
> I feel it has more potential...
>>Apparently a common problem with larger wheels and wider tires, which
>>agravate loose/worn suspension components and poor alignment.

I find that the added weight of the wheel tire combo, and konis, both 
contribute to a rough ride on a stock suspension.  The fact that you have 
dialed out any valving by going to the stiffest setting is probably what's 
giving you the firm ride.  Dial back .5 and see if that helps.  If it doesn't 
change shocks.  I've done several of these setups (a few on this very list), 
and the bilstein HD are the way to fly.  

> 
> I am looking for a better set up and any input would be appreciated..
> Probably buying your strut bar too
> 
> Oh, my driving habits, I have never been on the track, might go someday, but
> I enjoy curvy roads and the occasional exhilarating ride.  I love the car
> but I feel there is better handling to receive from it...  It is a daily
> driver that I feel could handle better....

Common audi quattro problem.  Wrong wheels, wrong tires, wrong suspesion from 
the factory.   As a rule, equal dialing of the alignment is key.  I use .5neg 
camber on all quattros (save some of the wilder 44 chassis setups) x all 4 
corners, the rest of the settings to factory spec, I try to get the boys to 
nail the toe mid spec both front and rear, which allows for less bumpsteer 
when you are loaded (your car that is).  

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago
87 type 44tqavant - bilstein HDx4, stock front springs, coil over rear, 30mm 
front swaybar
Ex
87 44tq - koni reds x4, coil over x4, 28mm front swaybar