[200q20v] Don't fix it if it aint broke

[Bernie Benz]

Alan,  Thanks for the note.  Comments below.

> From: "Cordeiro, Alan" <Alan.Cordeiro at mts.com>
> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 07:24:57 -0500
> To: "'Bernie Benz'" <b.m.benz at prodigy.net>
> Subject: RE: [200q20v] Don't fix it if it aint broke
> 
> Bernie,
> 
> I tend to work on the "don't fix it if it ain't broke, but
> I do believe the suspension needs new parts, there is considerable
> clunking from the back end.
Hey, when you find what's broke, fix it!  One of the things to check in a
clunking rear end is the upper suspension arms, the camber adjustment links.
The ball joints wear loose, the inner one most likely, as I remember.  I
replaced one with a tight used part (Old cars don't deserve new parts,
spoils 'em and makes other parts fail in sympathy).  I relubed all these
ball joints using a hypo needle thru the seals.  Clunk solved and joint
movement much improved.
> 
> And my hydraulic pump needs a rebuild, and sometime I want to get in
> the timing belt/waterpump/idler pulley replaced before winter. The
> previous owner did it at 119k, but the receipt show no parts charge
> for a new WP or idler. I suspect 154k on the original WP may be
> stretching it. Coolant after run pump is soon after that... (orange
> puddles on very hot days)
Isolate where the pump is leaking, if that's why you think it needs rebuild.
It is sometimes just a cylinder head O-ring.  I just replaced one (others
not broke) that obviously was damaged, pinched at original installation and
just now got crisp enough to fail.  Leak solved.

One of the pros of a "Don't fix it if it aint broke!" philosphy is avoiding
the new parts infant mortality syndrome as much as possible.  I replaced a
bad water pump with a new one that failed within 4K miles.  Supplier
replaced under warrenty, but I'd have really been pissed if I had done all
that work replacing a good pump just because "its time had come".
> 
> I have noticed you have considerable suspension experience.
> On Jim Blau's recommendation I am planning on using
> Boge Turbo-gas all around. However I noticed most people
> are using Bilsteins. I do not track, just commuting and
> occasional "spirited" driving around the town.
I've not used Bilsteins.  But apparently those that don't mind having their
back teeth loose all the time swear by them.  The gas pressurized shocks
will raise your car a measureable amount.  You can avoid this by using non
pressurized shocks, Boge, Koni and others make em.

Bernie
> 
> Alan 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bernie Benz [mailto:b.m.benz at prodigy.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 12:42 AM
> To: Cordeiro, Alan
> Cc: 200q20V mailing list
> Subject: Re: [200q20v] Don't fix it if it aint broke
> 
> 
> I do appreciate the personal attention attribute.  Well deserved!  And I do
> pain for your problem.
> 
> What is your, or the list's, recomended preventative maintaince schedule for
> master cylinder replacement?   If there ever was one, this is a typical and
> classic  "Don"t fix it if it ain't broke" item!  Your unfortunate failure is
> at least of the 1/10x6 type.  A stistical long shot failure is not 'stupid",
> it just happens.  Are you sure that a new MC comes with the push rod assy?
> Bet not.  Nothing wrong with your master cylinder, just the push rod.
> 
> I do religiously (my only faith?) flush brake fluid every 2 yrs min,
> whenever I'm in there.  A worthwhile and life long PM after having
> overhauled each hydraulic component of a "new" used car.
> 
> Regards, Bernie
> 
>> From: "Cordeiro, Alan" <Alan.Cordeiro at mts.com>
>> Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 22:31:53 -0500
>> To: "'200q20v at audifans.com'" <200q20v at audifans.com>
>> Subject: [200q20v] Don't fix it if it aint broke
>> 
>> Bernie,
>> 
>> I wish I had replaced my clutch master cylinder before it went south
>> last Friday. I made it home by continuing to drive the rest of the way in
>> second gear. I was fortunate had a straight road, and did not have any
>> signals between me and home. The hydraulic part is OK, the threaded
>> rod between the piston and the clevis pin snapped right where
>> the lock nut sets it on the clevis pin.
>> 
>> So much for prolonging the life of the hydraulic system by replacing
>> the fluid every 4-5 years. The stupid things fail mechanically....
>> I have a master cylinder on order, hopefully on its way..
>> 
>> Has this type of failure happened to anyone else??
>> 
>> Alan Cordeiro
>> '91 200q 153k miles, temporarily not drivable..
>> New struts, control arm bushings subframe bushings, all in a box
>> in the basement, hoping for that "new car feel"
>> 
>> 
>>> I would suggest that an alternative plan might well be to jack up the
> horn
>>> and drive a new 200 under it.  Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
>> 
>>> Bernie
>> 
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