[200q20v] a Chemist in the house???
Brett Dikeman
brett at brettd.dsl.speakeasy.net
Wed Mar 7 16:57:54 EST 2001
On Wed, 7 Mar 2001, Glen Powell wrote:
> Last weekend, before the Blizzard of 2001, I went to pull the two 'motor'
> fuses to reset my 'check-engine' light and found the top to the fuse-box was
> not securely fastened. A small quantity of road chemicals (for sno & ice
> control) was in evidence.
>
> I there a magic brew solution I could mix up and spray in there in small
> quantity that would neutralize those nasty corrosive chemicals before any
> corrosive damage is done?
I'm no chemist, but I certainly don't recommend the previous
solution(water?!?) Somebody was dippin' into the secret stash when they
suggested that one :-)
Caig makes a spray, fairly cheap and in large quantity...
http://www.caig.com/c-41.htm
I believe it's not-conductive, but call them or check their datasheet(they
give out -lots- of tech info on their products.) Check that the plastic
on the fusebox isn't something incompatible if you call them.
I would recommend:
-remove all fuses etc(make sure you have docs for what every fuse/relay is
and where it goes)
-vacuum/wipe down
-disconnect battery if stuff if conductive
-spray with cleaner completely
-allow to dry, blah blah
-spray it down with %5 deoxit, let it sit; optionally plug fuses+relays
around to clean off the connectors
-reapply c41 to flush off oxidation and excess deoxit
-apply PreserveIt %5(or, optionally, reapply fresh %5 deoxit)
-connect everything back up
This should leave you with a completely clean and trouble-free fusebox for
years.
If you don't want to go the route of c41/deoxit etc, then windsheild
washer fluid should be a much better choice than straight water; after
all, the stuff is designed to zap just exactly what you've got
there, it'll evaporate faster, has less water content, etc. No idea about
conductivity.
Brett
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