comparison pic of rebuilt/original calipers
Bernie Benz
b.m.benz at prodigy.net
Tue Apr 2 06:18:07 EST 2002
Comments below:
> From: "Kim Johnson" <ja6 at qwest.net>
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 01:14:29 -0600
> To: "Brett Dikeman" <brett at cloud9.net>, quattro at audifans.com
> Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: comparison pic of rebuilt/original calipers
>
> Bret,
>
> I just dismanteled a set of calipers this afternoon. The "slick tool" to get
> down inside and get that ring off was a medical type Hemostat. About 10 or
> 12 inches long made of stainless steel and should be easy to find at a tool
> supply or hardware store. You just have to sharpen up the ends with a file a
> small amount to fit onto the holes on the ring.
>
> Put the Hemostat clamp into the ring and clamp it to the first notch then
> press down on the top of the adjuster cone with a socket and extension (hand
> pressure, don't even need a clamp) and POP it's off.
>
> I am cleaning and derusting the bodies of the calipers then will paint them
> with a Rustoleum type paint. Some people have their calipers powdercoated.
> The secret to any good paint job is preparing the metal so the paint can
> stick to something solid. Calipers are a real PIA but I find several
> applications of Navel Jelly cuts the Crap pretty well.
The easy way to prep for painting is to sand blast before disassembly. Plug
the brake line hole and blast both the caliper and carrier. It will not
harm the boots which will remain completely reuseable after disassembly and
cleaning.
>
> Raybestos makes a lubricant called BAF-12 Hydraulic Brake Cylinder Assembly
> Fluid that contains a polyalkylene oil and rust inhibitors. I use this
> instead of soaking the new rubber seals in brake fluid. My thoughts being
> that the brake fluid residue contributes to corrosion if the air can get to
> it. IMHO that is what happened on your more corroded piston from your
> picture.
I use a little silcone oil, but I agree. Keep the brake fluid inside where
it belongs. My rebuilts don't see break fluid until I'm bleeding the
system.
>
> I will use Sil-Glide (a silicone grease) liberally to assemble the e-brake
> cam and adjuster mechanism. I have not been able to find a source for a
> replacement grease seal where the e-brake lever goes into the body of the
> caliper. So I just use a lot of Sil-Glide grease and a few big o-rings.
The seal is a standare size lip seal, available single or double lip.
>
> Upon installation, remember to quickly wash off the brake fluid that will
> spill on them.
Don't spill any on them.
Bernie
>
> Kim Johnson
> 1986 5ktq
> 1989 200tqw
> 1991 20V
>
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