[200q20v] Freeway madness

[Brett Dikeman]

At 2:44 PM -0500 1/30/02, Zoot531 at aol.com wrote:
>Listers,
>
>    Sorry about the first blank message, i must've pushed enter
>inadvertantly.  Anyhow, I guess i should have knocked on wood when i
>said the 200 was running better than ever...  It was, until i
>decided to pull onto the freeway two days ago.  Zipping up the
>onramp...5000 Rpm in second Gear...the car is really picking up
>speed, and then...a deafening silence.  No thrust whatsoever, no
>stuttering either...just quiet.  so without the means to go on, i
>maneuver to the side of the onramp, check the fuses (all ok) and
>decide to have it towed back to school.  After doing some tests, my
>mechanic finds that there is no spark and the injectors are not
>injecting.  He thinks this is due to a sensor near the bottom of the
>engine block that magnetically measures the rotation of the flywheel
>and tells the respective components when to squirt and zap.  Any
>listers have experience with this issue and-or know the price of
>replacement for this part?

Ie, the crank position sensor.  The 3B will continue to run without
it, using other sensors, if it fails while the car is running.  The
car will not, however, start with a bad crank position sensor.

There are few things that will cause the 3B to simply shut down
totally while running; most times, the Motronic ECU just assumes the
worst possible case for a particular sensor or uses the "best value
for the worst case" if the sensor was used to determine some timing
parameter etc.  The engine will even run without the MAF sensor
connected.  You won't get very far or fast, but it'll run :-)

   My mother's '95 volvo 960 is the exact opposite; the  coolant temp
sensor is known to fail every 60k miles or so, and sure enough, it
did.  Left her smack in the middle of an intersection in town and the
car would catch a little but not start; had to be pushed off the road
and towed.  I guess stalling in an intersection isn't part of the
whole philosophy of safety 1st at Volvo...

I would check all fuses for the engine systems(not just the two under
the little red cover) and dump codes from the ECU after cranking for
15 seconds.  The codes should reveal a lot more about what went
wrong.  Expect a bad crankshaft sensor code regardless; this code is
returned any time the crank isn't spinning(ie, you will not get this
code only if the engine is actually running.)

B
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