Wiring Bundle Repair
Jeremy Palenchar
jeremyp at mindspring.com
Tue Jul 9 21:01:16 EDT 2002
Hi Ken,
We replaced the wires with new wires and added quick disconnects on
either side of the door hinge. This allows us to remove the entire piece
that runs through the hinge. It still requires a partial dissasembly of
the door but it allows an easy replacement of individual problem wires
later down the road.
The documents are coming under separate cover.
-Jeremy
_______________________________________________
Email: mailto:jeremyp at mindspring.com
The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer
_______________________________________________
-----Original Message-----
From: 200q20v-admin at audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of auditude at get.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 6:46 PM
To: 200q20v at audifans.com
Cc: jeremyp at mindspring.com
Subject: re: Wiring Bundle Repair
Hi Jeremy,
Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in the
same configuration? Is there anything to prevent a recurrence of the
problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot?
It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not
sure if the 200's are the same), having all the wires flex in half,
right at the hinge.
A design that seems better to me has the wires coming out of the
A-pillar at a certain level, and entering the door either higher or
lower so that there is more length to flex, and the flexing is more
torsional as well. Other cars have this type of setup.
I don't know if this is an option somehow, but it would be nice to fix
the problem for good, and actually address the root cause.
Perhaps the replacement wires (could) have a higher strand content, or
are braided or something else that would make them more flexible for a
longer period of time?
You guys with the '91 200q20v's have gotten maybe 11 years out of the
old design before having problems, so maybe just replacing the wires
with new ones is good enough for practical purposes. But it would be
nice to not have to worry about an area once it's been gone through.
There are plenty of "other" problems to get to, at least with my car.
If it's not too much trouble, I'd be interested in your parts list.
Please send me a copy. Even if it didn't apply directly to my '88
5kcstq, it would probably be a good start for me. My car has at least a
few strands broken.
Thanks,
Ken
Jeremy Palenchar jeremyp at mindspring.com wrote:
>
> OK,
>
> I put together a parts list for the materials I used to rebuild the
> harness in my driver's door.
>
> The grand total was $175 (including a $35 crimping tool).
>
> This could be done for much less using Molex 15 position plugs but I
> think the AMP connectors are built better and provide a more secure
> connection.
>
> I could put together a kit for $200 + shipping if a few people are
> interested. Please email me if you would like the parts list.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar To: 'Sullivan, Alan';
>
> A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not
> an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours
> labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run
> through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is
> interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and
> installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs.
>
> It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind
> it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring.
>
> Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan To: 200q20v at audifans.com
>
> Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door
> and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and
> closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together
> rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the
> wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs
> --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other
> wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method?
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