How to drive a 20V from San Francisco to Philadelphia

[Adam Gratz]

Taka-

Thank you for the "what to look for when driving cross country in a 20V"
tips. Sounds like the standard stuff that went south on my 10V avant.

Q: brake load proportioning valve- where is this thing and how is it tested.

I'm replacing the "bomb" also. Does $250 sound fair for the part?

Adam-
PS: Any fans out there along HWY 80 want to spot a poor student a night on a
sofa this december?


If you can afford having lots of parts replaced, I'd
do the following:

Heater control valve- POS plastic valve can break and disable
your cooling system, mounted low on firewall near heater core.

Radiator hoses- all of them- they can burst at inopportune times.

Auxiliary water pump (turbo after-run) hose- the J shaped hose
from the aux. water pump can go.

Examine your rubber brake lines and pads, make sure you replace them
if they are marginal, esp. with the mountains.

Examine your brake load proportioning valve- make sure it is not stuck
and operates freely so your brakes are at their optimum.

Upper intercooler hose- the "Michelin Man" hose from the intercooler to
the throttle body- make sure it is in good condition, doesn't hurt to
carry a spare.

Turbo bypass valve and 3mm vacuum line- again, as spares.

Hose clamps of various sizes, incl. the hoses for the bypass valve and
intercooler.

Make sure your belts are in good shape.

The other stuff is unlikely, make certain your hydraulic system is
leak-free before leaving- steering rack, pump, hydraulic pressure
accumulator, brake booster, all high-pressure lines to and from the
pump.

Good luck, post to the list right before you leave, I'm sure some people
will be willing to lend a hand on your trip if necessary- lots of s-car
listers in CO, not much in the midwest, Scott J is in Chicago, Tom and
Andy at Euro-Car in Ohio, etc.

Taka

-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Gratz [mailto:adamgratz at hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 10:28 PM
To: t44tq at mindspring.com
Subject: RE: 200q20v brake upgrade


Taka-

Leaving Dec. 18th from San Francisco. Any spare parts you think I should

take with? Wheel bearing, hoses, fuel pump(heheh). Little stupid parts
that
break and are impossible to find in the middle of HWY 80..

Adam-





If you can afford having lots of parts replaced, I'd
do the following:

Heater control valve- POS plastic valve can break and disable
your cooling system, mounted low on firewall near heater core.

Radiator hoses- all of them- they can burst at inopportune times.

Auxiliary water pump (turbo after-run) hose- the J shaped hose
from the aux. water pump can go.

Examine your rubber brake lines and pads, make sure you replace them
if they are marginal, esp. with the mountains.

Examine your brake load proportioning valve- make sure it is not stuck
and operates freely so your brakes are at their optimum.

Upper intercooler hose- the "Michelin Man" hose from the intercooler to
the throttle body- make sure it is in good condition, doesn't hurt to
carry a spare.

Turbo bypass valve and 3mm vacuum line- again, as spares.

Hose clamps of various sizes, incl. the hoses for the bypass valve and
intercooler.

Make sure your belts are in good shape.

The other stuff is unlikely, make certain your hydraulic system is
leak-free before leaving- steering rack, pump, hydraulic pressure
accumulator, brake booster, all high-pressure lines to and from the
pump.

Good luck, post to the list right before you leave, I'm sure some people
will be willing to lend a hand on your trip if necessary- lots of s-car
listers in CO, not much in the midwest, Scott J is in Chicago, Tom and
Andy at Euro-Car in Ohio, etc.

Taka



Taka-

Leaving for Philly Dec. 18th from San Francisco. Any spare parts you think I
should

take with? Wheel bearing, hoses, fuel pump(heheh). Little stupid parts
that
break and are impossible to find in the middle of HWY 80....


adam-









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