Was overheating now( Radaitor temps)

Thu Aug 28 16:44:36 EDT 2003

Mike,

My coolant temps are below normal.
With either chip (Mihnea, Hohenester or stock)... it's running cooler than the old WR did (Ur-q).
The fan comes on occasionally and only for 10-20 sec or so in stop-go traffic.
I was going to install an 80C thermostat but ended up going with the stock 87C unit as per Scott M recomendation of keeping it nice and hot... well... now I feel like I should be installing a hotter unit just to keep it "Normal" on the highway...
I am using the new, orange type coolant, don't know if that makes any difference.

Actually my oil temps are very low as well... 70-80C and rarely going close to 100C on highway.
I do however see very high exhaust temps... 1350F on highway (80-90mph cruise) and about 1300F at full boost and throttle (nice and rich).
Regualar city traffic produces about 1100F.

Cheers
Martin Pajak
www.quattro.ca

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Richard Tanimura [mailto:richard at tanimuras.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 10:03 AM
>To: Chuck Pierce; Eugene Kanter
>Cc: '200q20v'
>Subject: RE: Was overheating now( Radaitor temps)
>
>
>Chuck,
>
>Since installing a Mihnea chip in my car, I have noted (as expected) higher
>running temps esp. in stop and go town driving. I am curious about what you
>did to the cooling system that you seem to be happy with.
>
>Rich
>Now with a hot (in both senses) 3B motor
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 200q20v-admin at audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin at audifans.com]On
>Behalf Of Chuck Pierce
>Sent: den 28 augusti 2003 15:04
>To: Eugene Kanter
>Cc: '200q20v'
>Subject: Was overheating now( Radaitor temps)
>
>
>--
>[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
>Eugene
>When the radiator fan comes on at idle it is the #2 speed, the low
>speed(#1) comes on when the a/c is turned on.
>My #2 speed comes on when the needle is almost straight up. Just below
>100C. Here is a link to Scott M's page as a reference.
>I left my car idling in the 100F day recently with the a/c on and the
>car did not go beyond the point where the fan comes on.
>I did a lot of work on the cooling system this spring and it seems to
>have paid off.
>
>Chuck Pierce
>91 200tq 20v Avant about to get Euro lights put in!!!!!!
>
>Eugene Kanter wrote:
>
>>Could anyone tell me when (according to in-dash temperature control)
>>radiator fan starts if car left idle for a while? The first stage radiator
>>thermoswitch should close just above 90C I think. But temperature control
>>has no digits!
>>
>>Eugene.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: 200q20v-admin at audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin at audifans.com] On
>>Behalf Of Brett Dikeman
>>Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 11:14 PM
>>To: Peter Schulz
>>Cc: b.benz at charter.net; 200q20v
>>Subject: Re: [audi20v] Re: overheating
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>From: Peter Schulz <peschulz at cisco.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>the ECU and Temp gauge get  temperature information from the
>>>>>Multifunction temperature sender ofrMFTS, which is on the left side
>>>>>of the engine, below and forward of the distributor
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>Wrong, Peter.  Neither the MPI nor the Motronic ECUs derive coolent
>>>>temp info from the MFTS.  Both use a dedicated sensor located on the
>>>>back of the head.
>>>>
>>>>Bernie
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>At 01:51 PM 8/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>If thats the case why does removing the lead to the MFTS in some cases
>>>restore boost (part of diagnosing a bad MFTS)?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>[beats head repeatedly against the wall for this is only the billionth time
>>we've gone over this :) ]
>>
>>The MFTS only provides a we're-about-to-overheat signal to the ECU/Climate
>>control, a holy-crap-we're-overheating signal to autocheck, and a
>>temperature level to the gauge.
>>
>>The MFTS sinks current from autocheck to indicate an overheat, sinks
>current
>>from the dash gauge, and sources current(possily from the gauge in the
>3-pin
>>sensor versions?) for the ECU and CC head.
>>
>>The ECU derives exact coolant temperature for purposes of starting and
>>timing, from the sensor bernie mentions- the sensor on the back of the
>>block.  If said sensor fails/shorts/is disconnected...the ECU assumes
>>maximum temperature and sets timing appropriately(I don't recall if boost
>is
>>also dialed back a little or not, I think it might be.)
>>
>>Mike is right- the MFTS sends the overheat signal to the climate control
>>unit and the ECU(via pin #2), and also drives autocheck(pin #4).  If you'd
>>all kindly flip to page 545 in your Bentley repair manuals, you'd see pin 2
>>of the MFTS goes to current track 473(CC head) and 43(ECU).
>>
>>Pin 4 is marked as tied to the float switch's supply side(pin #1 on the
>>float goes to ground point #82), but supply is marked as track #276- a
>track
>>which does not exist in my copy.  Obviously the circuit works in the car,
>>and the other leg is ground, so #276 must go to the auto-check system, and
>>it must be a source.  I don't think they would use pin #4 as supply in the
>>3-pin version for signalling the ECU+CC, as a low-coolant condition would
>>drop the voltage on pin #4 to zero.
>>
>>One sidenote- pin #2(ECU/CC overheat signal) triggers earlier than pin
>>#4(Autocheck).  If you were to disassemble one of the old-style sensors,
>>you'd find a wax-expansion-driven piston setup, whereby the piston presses
>>against a spring-loaded canteliever-type deal, relay-style, with two sets
>of
>>contacts. Playing with the lever, you'll find one set closes sooner than
>the
>>other.
>>
>>This of course makes perfect operational sense- if the car's overheating,
>>the sensor first tries to save the bacon by cutting A/C and telling the ECU
>>to knock off the high-HP shenanigans.  Failing that, scream at the
>driver...
>>
>>B
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>>
>
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