Ignition switch (was Re: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1334 - 14 msgs)

[Phil Rose]

Thanks for that info Charlie.

I've begun to wonder: might the liklihood of Audi ignition switch
breakage correlate with the driver's tendancy to keep the steering
wheel turned (away from center by a large amount) at the time he
turns off the switch? This situation often will put the
steering-column lock under stress and can cause excessive force to be
applied to the ignition switch when attempting to turn on the
ignition. Years ago--with another vehicle, in another galaxy-- I
tried to develop a habit of keeping the wheels straight ahead when
parked (except on hills, of course.) This was related to premature
failure I had observed on a steering rack boot. I hope this ploy
might also prolong the life of my ignition switch (but I don't have
high hopes).

Phil

P.S. I hope digest readers will try to avoid using the digest
reference for their subject line.


At 9:51 AM -0700 1/14/03, Charles Baer wrote:
>I bought the dealer assembly and switch to do this a few months ago
>after a ham-fisted car wash gang forced my switch and broke it. Brian
>made a good move finding an older part, the new rotator tab piece is
>slightly different and won't fit older cylinder assemblies.
>
>I did find a source for the black security cap so I cut the old one
>off and rekeyed the new cylinder to match the other locks.  If you
>choose that route, be careful not to cut the retaining circlip when
>you cut off the cap.  This is where I bought the cap:
>
>  Andrew's Wholesale Lock Supply
>  544 South 9th. Street, Lebanon, PA 17042
>  800-544-0519 - 717-274-8659 (FAX)
>  E-Mail: sales at andrewslock.com
>
>The PDFs on their site showed P-31-609 for a 91, but it turned out
>that mine was a P-31-610 ( 91> V8s, 92> 100s & urS ).  The 609 has
>a rounded surround while the 610 has a flat face around the keyhole.
>
>Charlie
>
>Brian Link wrote:
>>
>>  Steve,
>>  That's crazy,  Mine did the same thing last weekend? I had to pop start
>>  my car to get home, then disconnect the battery when I got home. Do you
>>  have a Bentley manual?
>>  If it is only your switch you are in luck, $30 and you need to remove
>>  the instrument cluster and the lower panel under the drivers dash.  Mine
>>  turned out to be both the switch and the part of the ignition that turns
>>  the switch.  To remove the whole ignition assembly you also need to
>>  remove the steering wheel and steering column.  It is kind of a huge
>>  pain.  I think the dealer wanted $75 for a new ignition switch with
>>  keys.  I took just the part I needed from a wrecked 200 so I could keep
>>  my keys.  If you don't have a Bentley, the only hard part is finding the
>>  painted screws behind the dash to replace the plastic switch.
>>
>  > Good Luck
>>
--

Phil Rose
Rochester, NY
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net