20v Cap and rotor Q&A

[wolff at turboquattro.com]

WTF is a rotor "button"?
The dealer knows how to check if the cam is still in time or not which will
indicate whether the timing belt has skipped teeth. I don't know what they
are trying to pull on you. I wouldn't let them take anything apart. I would
get it towed to a different shop for a second opinion. I'm not saying that
the timing belt isn't stripped or whether the distributer drive gear is
broken. It could be either, but they should be able to tell you
definatively. It's their job.
HTH,
Wolff
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> These guys are pieces of work (audi of Alexandria, VA).  Now the
technician
> calls me back and says its the rotor button and that the rotor did not
> explode.  He said that the rotor button quits spinning and the timing belt
> is loose which suggests that some teeth are missing and the engine is out
of
> time. In which case there would be head damage due to it being an
> interference engine.  Total tear down could be 25 hours labor!!!!   Anyone
> interested in a beautiful car.....$1000. 91 Audi 200 Quattro turbo sedan
20V
> only 1600 made.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SuffolkD at aol.com [mailto:SuffolkD at aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:05 PM
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Cc: bgaballah at kpmg.com; bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
>
>
> AFAIK:
> The distributor for the 20V (3B) is specific (as referenced below) and
hard
> to get, so double check you get the correct distributor not a 10V (MC)
> maybe these are correct: 10V (MC): 035 905 206 AF
> 20V (3B): 034 905 205 Q
> most other BTDT listers here will chime in with their experience.
> It seems that the rotor under the cap (only one -rotor- listed 052 905
225C
> but there is discussion about two, the narrower - rotor - being correct)
>
> It seems however, that the post of yours talks about going into the motor
> which leads me to think that the STEALER is soaking you for 12 hours of
> labor, OR THAT the gear at the bottom of the distributor (plastic?), in
the
> motor, has broken.
> If that's the case if could be a true 12 hour process just to open the
motor
> head to look around.
>
> While I'm not experienced in that department, you may want to consider
that
> (Derek?) listers have had metal gears made for the bottom of there
> distributors.
>
> If your a risk taker, go cap/rotor and new distributor after trying to
shop
> vac the plastic out of the distributor hole.  Then run a new one
> (distributor - best w/metal gear you sourced) to see if you escape the 12
> hours labor.
>
> I'd recommend getting all the broken pieces out first.  Local wrench
maybe?
> Tell us what happens.  This info can be superceeded by a more
knowledgeable
> BTDT lister.
> HTH -Scott in BOSTON
>
> >>>>>>>>>> dealer states he
> removed the distributor to see why it wasn't getting any spark and found
out
>
> that the rotor was in pieces.  The dealer suggests 12 hours in labor to
> tear it down and check for further damage to the head etc
>
> Message: 4
> From: "Jobe Tichy" <bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Your friend seems to be on to something here....I would do the same thing.
> Just start with replacing the cap and rotor (cheapest route) and see if it
> starts. At the end of the day, what damage was done has been done and I
> don't
> think that just replacing those parts and trying to start will aggravate
any
>
> further damage, if any at all.  Make sure you use the correct rotor part
for
>
> the 20v turbo.
>
>
>
>
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