Headliner repair using wooden battens

[Chuck Pierce]

I had this problem with my Avant last year and did the same with some
strips of aluminum . I used some spray adhesive to glue the cloth back up.
Came out good.

Chuck Pierce
91 200tq 20v Avant  Very slowly getting sorted out.

Doyt W. Echelberger wrote:

> On my type 44, the fabric headliner detached from its adhesive/foam,
> starting at the back window and extending forward almost to the rear
> of the
> sunroof, mostly in the centerline. The rear edge of the fabric fell
> out of
> the retaining trim that surrounds the upper line of the rear window. I
> couldn't see out of my rear view mirror. Passengers complained. So, I
> fixed it.
>
> At several drive-ins, I had seen custom headliners on refurbished cars
> from
> the 60's. They had non-fabric fiberboard headliners secured by
> side-to-side
> chrome plated metal battens that were held up by screws that went up into
> hidden strips. The strips were probably epoxied against the roof. Using
> that model, I bought an 8 foot section of clear white pine from Lowes,
> about 3/4 inch wide and maybe 1/4 inch thick. Wider might have been
> better,
> like 1 to 1.5 inches. I cut it into 3 pieces that ran from one side of
> the
> roof to the other, stopping short on each side before reaching the sharp
> downward curve of the roof. You will see why the 3 pieces were different
> lengths....33, 32, and 38 inches.
>
> I used an 1/8 inch drill to pierce the battens, with the first hole half
> way between the ends, and 4 more (two on each half.) A smaller drill (and
> smaller screws) would have been sufficient.
>
> I held the first (33 inch) pre-drilled batten against the droopy
> headliner,  20 inches past the sunroof, measured toward the rear window.
> The batten ran between the two sides of the cabin. I smoothed the liner
> between the sunroof and the batten until the wrinkles were gone.
>
> The section between the first batten and the rear window still
> drooped, but
> the liner between the batten and the sunroof was tight. I forced the
> point
> of an ice pick through the middle 1/8 inch drilled hole, to cut the
> headliner and make a starter hole in the fiberboard for the screw. If you
> don't do this, the liner fabric twists as the screw goes through it.
> Then I
> just pushed really hard with the screwdriver and turned the half inch
> wood
> screw tight against the batten. Putting the first screw in the center
> hole
> held the batten tightly and evenly against the headliner, and allowed
> me to
> place the remaining screws in the batten. Be sure the fabric is smooth
> and
> tight between the sunroof and the batten, before inserting the remaining
> screws.
>
> The second batten (32 inches long) went in place in the same manner,
> about
> half way between the first batten and the rear window. The fiber
> headliner
> swoops  up toward the roof at this point, and a slightly shorter batten
> fits the space better, with less pulling of the fabric.
>
> The third and final batten is 38 inches long, and it goes in place as
> close
> to the upper edge of the rear window as you can get. The batten is
> straight, and the window line is a curve, so at the center of the batten
> there is about an inch of space. Just get the fabric smooth and tight
> between the middle batten and the last batten, and after fastening the
> last
> batten, use a flatblade screwdriver or putty knife to work the last
> inch of
> the fabric under the rear window trim. Brush off the reddish brown
> foam/adhesive that falls all over the place, and be careful not to
> grind it
> into the haedliner fabric as you work.
>
> Wear appropriate protective clothing and safety gear, and do not attempt
> such repairs if you are allergic to any of the materials.
>
> Now you can see out of your rear view mirror again, and passengers no
> longer need auxiliary tent poles to sit in the back seat.
>
> Doyt Echelberger
> 87 5ktq
> Ohio  USA
>
>