headliner

[Mark Trank]

Chuck et al:

What kind of spray adhesive did you use/recommend?  Right now, my problem is
only with the sunroof portion; the rest of the headliner is in place and
showing no signs of drooping.....

Mark
91 200q20v 106k miles


-----Original Message-----
From: 200q20v-request at audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-request at audifans.com]
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 12:00 PM
To: 200q20v at audifans.com
Subject: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1575 - 4 msgs


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Headliner repair using wooden battens (Chuck Pierce)
   2. Re: Headliner repair using wooden battens (Michael Riebs / AudiV8)
   3. fuel pump check valve(s) dilemma (Phil Rose)
   4. Brake fluid reservoir questions (Brian Link)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 09:32:47 -0700
From: Chuck Pierce <cpcycle at earthlink.net>
To: "Doyt W. Echelberger" <Doyt at NWOnline.Net>
Cc: quattro at audifans.com, 200q20v at audifans.com
Subject: Re: Headliner repair using wooden battens

I had this problem with my Avant last year and did the same with some
strips of aluminum . I used some spray adhesive to glue the cloth back up.
Came out good.

Chuck Pierce
91 200tq 20v Avant  Very slowly getting sorted out.

Doyt W. Echelberger wrote:

> On my type 44, the fabric headliner detached from its adhesive/foam,
> starting at the back window and extending forward almost to the rear
> of the
> sunroof, mostly in the centerline. The rear edge of the fabric fell
> out of
> the retaining trim that surrounds the upper line of the rear window. I
> couldn't see out of my rear view mirror. Passengers complained. So, I
> fixed it.
>
> At several drive-ins, I had seen custom headliners on refurbished cars
> from
> the 60's. They had non-fabric fiberboard headliners secured by
> side-to-side
> chrome plated metal battens that were held up by screws that went up into
> hidden strips. The strips were probably epoxied against the roof. Using
> that model, I bought an 8 foot section of clear white pine from Lowes,
> about 3/4 inch wide and maybe 1/4 inch thick. Wider might have been
> better,
> like 1 to 1.5 inches. I cut it into 3 pieces that ran from one side of
> the
> roof to the other, stopping short on each side before reaching the sharp
> downward curve of the roof. You will see why the 3 pieces were different
> lengths....33, 32, and 38 inches.
>
> I used an 1/8 inch drill to pierce the battens, with the first hole half
> way between the ends, and 4 more (two on each half.) A smaller drill (and
> smaller screws) would have been sufficient.
>
> I held the first (33 inch) pre-drilled batten against the droopy
> headliner,  20 inches past the sunroof, measured toward the rear window.
> The batten ran between the two sides of the cabin. I smoothed the liner
> between the sunroof and the batten until the wrinkles were gone.
>
> The section between the first batten and the rear window still
> drooped, but
> the liner between the batten and the sunroof was tight. I forced the
> point
> of an ice pick through the middle 1/8 inch drilled hole, to cut the
> headliner and make a starter hole in the fiberboard for the screw. If you
> don't do this, the liner fabric twists as the screw goes through it.
> Then I
> just pushed really hard with the screwdriver and turned the half inch
> wood
> screw tight against the batten. Putting the first screw in the center
> hole
> held the batten tightly and evenly against the headliner, and allowed
> me to
> place the remaining screws in the batten. Be sure the fabric is smooth
> and
> tight between the sunroof and the batten, before inserting the remaining
> screws.
>
> The second batten (32 inches long) went in place in the same manner,
> about
> half way between the first batten and the rear window. The fiber
> headliner
> swoops  up toward the roof at this point, and a slightly shorter batten
> fits the space better, with less pulling of the fabric.
>
> The third and final batten is 38 inches long, and it goes in place as
> close
> to the upper edge of the rear window as you can get. The batten is
> straight, and the window line is a curve, so at the center of the batten
> there is about an inch of space. Just get the fabric smooth and tight
> between the middle batten and the last batten, and after fastening the
> last
> batten, use a flatblade screwdriver or putty knife to work the last
> inch of
> the fabric under the rear window trim. Brush off the reddish brown
> foam/adhesive that falls all over the place, and be careful not to
> grind it
> into the haedliner fabric as you work.
>
> Wear appropriate protective clothing and safety gear, and do not attempt
> such repairs if you are allergic to any of the materials.
>
> Now you can see out of your rear view mirror again, and passengers no
> longer need auxiliary tent poles to sit in the back seat.
>
> Doyt Echelberger
> 87 5ktq
> Ohio  USA
>
>




--__--__--

Message: 2
Reply-To: "Michael Riebs / AudiV8" <audiv8 at 1stchoicegranite.com>
From: "Michael Riebs / AudiV8" <AudiV8 at 1stchoicegranite.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>, "Doyt W. Echelberger" <Doyt at NWOnline.Net>
Cc: <200q20v at audifans.com>
Subject: Re: Headliner repair using wooden battens
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 10:24:54 -0400

Um...
I just glued mine back in!

Michael L. Riebs
Grand Rapids, Michigan

'90 V8Q
'98 A6QA

www.omegaconceptsltd.com
www.1stchoicegranite.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Doyt W. Echelberger" <Doyt at NWOnline.Net>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Cc: <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 12:25 PM
Subject: Headliner repair using wooden battens


> On my type 44, the fabric headliner detached from its adhesive/foam,
> starting at the back window and extending forward almost to the rear of
the
> sunroof, mostly in the centerline. The rear edge of the fabric fell out of
> the retaining trim that surrounds the upper line of the rear window. I
> couldn't see out of my rear view mirror. Passengers complained. So, I
fixed it.
>
> At several drive-ins, I had seen custom headliners on refurbished cars
from
> the 60's. They had non-fabric fiberboard headliners secured by
side-to-side
> chrome plated metal battens that were held up by screws that went up into
> hidden strips. The strips were probably epoxied against the roof. Using
> that model, I bought an 8 foot section of clear white pine from Lowes,
> about 3/4 inch wide and maybe 1/4 inch thick. Wider might have been
better,
> like 1 to 1.5 inches. I cut it into 3 pieces that ran from one side of the
> roof to the other, stopping short on each side before reaching the sharp
> downward curve of the roof. You will see why the 3 pieces were different
> lengths....33, 32, and 38 inches.
>
> I used an 1/8 inch drill to pierce the battens, with the first hole half
> way between the ends, and 4 more (two on each half.) A smaller drill (and
> smaller screws) would have been sufficient.
>
> I held the first (33 inch) pre-drilled batten against the droopy
> headliner,  20 inches past the sunroof, measured toward the rear window.
> The batten ran between the two sides of the cabin. I smoothed the liner
> between the sunroof and the batten until the wrinkles were gone.
>
> The section between the first batten and the rear window still drooped,
but
> the liner between the batten and the sunroof was tight. I forced the point
> of an ice pick through the middle 1/8 inch drilled hole, to cut the
> headliner and make a starter hole in the fiberboard for the screw. If you
> don't do this, the liner fabric twists as the screw goes through it. Then
I
> just pushed really hard with the screwdriver and turned the half inch wood
> screw tight against the batten. Putting the first screw in the center hole
> held the batten tightly and evenly against the headliner, and allowed me
to
> place the remaining screws in the batten. Be sure the fabric is smooth and
> tight between the sunroof and the batten, before inserting the remaining
> screws.
>
> The second batten (32 inches long) went in place in the same manner, about
> half way between the first batten and the rear window. The fiber headliner
> swoops  up toward the roof at this point, and a slightly shorter batten
> fits the space better, with less pulling of the fabric.
>
> The third and final batten is 38 inches long, and it goes in place as
close
> to the upper edge of the rear window as you can get. The batten is
> straight, and the window line is a curve, so at the center of the batten
> there is about an inch of space. Just get the fabric smooth and tight
> between the middle batten and the last batten, and after fastening the
last
> batten, use a flatblade screwdriver or putty knife to work the last inch
of
> the fabric under the rear window trim. Brush off the reddish brown
> foam/adhesive that falls all over the place, and be careful not to grind
it
> into the haedliner fabric as you work.
>
> Wear appropriate protective clothing and safety gear, and do not attempt
> such repairs if you are allergic to any of the materials.
>
> Now you can see out of your rear view mirror again, and passengers no
> longer need auxiliary tent poles to sit in the back seat.
>
> Doyt Echelberger
> 87 5ktq
> Ohio  USA
>
>
>

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:49:09 -0400
To: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
From: Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
Subject: fuel pump check valve(s) dilemma
Cc: quattro at audifans.com

I'm just getting around to trying to fix the hot-start problem in our
red car ('91 200q), and I intend to replace the fuel pump's
check-valve. The pump itself seems fine (very quiet). But when I
looked closely at the new (replacement) check valve, I realized there
would be a fitment problem...

There evidently are two different versions of check valve used on
Bosch/Audi 60 mm fuel pumps--the difference involves whether (or not)
an external pressure damper is used. The original oem pump in my car
has a 60mm dia. pump with a pressure damper installed above the check
valve (443 906 093). This check valve is elongated to enable use with
a banjo-style fuel line. However some 60 mm pumps claim "requiring no
pressure damper". Instead, they use just a 12 mm cap nut that allows
the fuel line banjo fitting to be connected via a *shorter* version
of check valve (034 965 093).

The problem is that I was sold the shorter version of the check valve
(034 965 093), and it cannot be used to replace the original check
valve (443 906 093)--unless the pressure damper is *discarded* and a
12 mm cap nut (not supplied, BTW) is used in its place. I am very
hesitant to dispense with the pressure damper, since I am not
replacing the pump, just a leaky valve. I assume I need to find the
proper check valve and not use the short one. Has anyone else
encountered this situation? I don't recall any discussion of this
(the 20V list commonly focuses on the issue of 43mm vs 60 mm pump)s.
Will the cap nut arrangement (i.e., without a damper) work fine with
my old pump? I assume/hope the "long" valves are still available but
have not yet located one.

Phil
--

Phil Rose				Rochester, NY USA
'91 200q	(140K, Lago blue)
'91 200q   (64K, Tornado red)
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net


--__--__--

Message: 4
Subject: Brake fluid reservoir questions
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 09:24:36 -0600
From: "Brian Link" <BrianL at starsys.com>
To: <200q20v at audifans.com>


After working on my brakes this weekend, I noticed the float in my brake
fluid reservoir is not really attached to anything.  Does any one know
how to remove the filter basket?  I want to see if the float is attached
to anything.

Thanks
Brian Link


--__--__--

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