warm start - no idle issue take 2

[Brett Dikeman]

At 9:49 AM -0700 6/8/04, Derek Pulvino wrote:
>Steve,
>
>On the below, I don't think it's not worthwhile to take the chance, 
>but the big reason I didn't suspect the ISV is that the problem is 
>not constant.  It seems to me that if the ISV was sticking it would 
>stick in both hot and cold situations.
>
>Of course this is idle theorizing, and perhaps scott has tried the 
>technique and seen it to work...
>

Scott's method is somewhat "the hard way"; just pull the valve (it's 
two clamps and a connector) and hose down the insides with throttle 
body cleaner.  For maximum effectiveness, plug the openings after 
spraying a bunch in, shake, drain, repeat until the stuff comes out 
reasonably clear.

An eraser or similar soft object can be used to prod the vane to 
check for free movement, or simply connect to a 9V battery.  Note 
that the valve opens in the direction that appears to be proper to 
close the opening, NOT the other way.  That slight opening when fully 
"closed" is normal, and allows the engine to idle even if the valve 
is disconnected, broken, etc.

While you're poking around in there if you have some time to kill, 
pull off the boot on the throttle body(might be able to get away with 
just removing the metal pipe, it has to come off anyway to get in 
there) and clean the entire throttle assembly(I recommend wiping what 
you can with a soaked paper towel or rag, then hosing it down with 
cleaner).

Warm start problems are usually caused by bad check valves, I 
believe?  You also really should check the codes and run the output 
diag test to make sure all control valves are working OK, although I 
don't remember if the charcoal canister is drawn from during 
starting, or turned on later...

B
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