green gold pump leak

[auditude at cox.net]

I finally got a look at what was going on, after cleaning and letting it leak again.  I'm thinking it's the pressure hose now.  It seems to be most wet underneath the hose, and I can sort of squeeze pentosin out from under the sleeve at the end by the crimp.

I'll have to pull the pressure hose off my new parts car this evening and try to get things squared away.

It's interesting that the hose looks like it's very new.  I can't tell if it is a reproduction or the original.  There is something under the skin of it toward the back.

Anyways, gotta go.  I'll post more as I find out more.

Later,

Ken

> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> Date: 2004/06/21 Mon PM 04:11:18 EDT
> To: <auditude at cox.net>
> CC: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: green gold pump leak
> 
> Ken,
> 
> The shaft seal could leak either way, air into the system when running
> (possible cause of the frothing overflow syndrome) or fluid out when
> stopped.  Either way, the seal pressure is never more than 6" of oil.
> 
> Bernie 
> 
> > From: <auditude at COX.NET>
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 15:35:14 -0400
> > To: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> > Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> > Subject: Re: green gold pump leak
> > 
> > Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
> >> 
> >> Comment below, Ken.
> >> 
> >>> From: <auditude at cox.net>
> >> 
> >>>> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> >>>> 
> >>>>> From: <auditude at cox.net>
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> <snip> Turns out my power steering pump is leaking,
> >>>>> apparently from the crush washer/banjo bolt area on the top of it.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>> Not the likely leak source, Ken.  Much more likely would be one of the
> >>>> cylinder heads, the X head caps, 4 for the PS and 2 for the PB.  Degrease
> >>>> the pump well with solvent and then find the real leak.  If indead that you
> >>>> are right, it is the supply line from the reservoir, just loosen the banjo
> >>>> bolt a half turn and retighten, no need to replace the copper washer or
> >> O-ring.  This holds for any banjo bolt seal, I never have.
> >>>> 
> >>>> Bernie 
> >>>>> 
> > <snip>
> >>> 
> >>> Thanks, I think that's true.  I checked with BAP Import Parts and they said
> >>> there were no seal kits in their nationwide system.
> >>> 
> >> Why do you think that a seal kit is necessary?  Likely not, as all parts are
> >> available indivudually as required.  Find the leak!
> > 
> > Hi Bernie,
> > 
> > I'm not sure why I thought a seal kit was necessary,
> > probably some combination of my genes and experiences that
> > contributed to my being an individual.  It would probably
> > take a lot psychotherapy or something to determine the
> > answer to that.  The problem solving process has got to
> > start somewhere, right?  Does the reason for my initial
> > thinking affect fixing the leak?
> > 
> > I have done some searching online and such for more info
> > about the PS pump.  I found the part number Bernie posted
> > for the cylinder o-rings.  I also saw some posts speculating
> > that the material in the factory kit might be special
> > compared to generic ones.  If I can get a deal on the
> > factory seal kit, I prefer to go that way.
> > 
> > Here's the part number for the X-cap seals Bernie posted in
> > the knowledgebase:
> > 
> > "The most likely failure point would be one of the cylinder
> > head O-ring seals on the front half, power brake end of the
> > pump, which can be changed in situ. (A generic 2-018 O-ring,
> > $0.10) Clean the pump and find the leak before deciding to
> > R&R. DFI if IAB!"
> > 
> > While searching the stuff online, I noticed a post that
> > conflicted with the others I found about Bernie's
> > recommendations.
> > 
> > http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/2002-October/063620.html
> > 
> > "...I have not previously replaced the front seal on the
> > shaft because I've not had one leaking from the front, only
> > from between the halves and from under the mushroom caps.
> > But Bernie Benz says that seal should be replaced also to
> > assure pump doesn't suck air.  So I don't know that the
> > front seal in that kit is the appropriate one, but it sure
> > looks like it would be."
> > 
> > I believe Bernie's position regarding the shaft seal is to
> > leave it alone if it's not leaking.  That would be
> > consistent with his usual stance as well.
> > 
> >>> I noticed the earlier pumps aren't interchangeable, and that actually the 3B
> >>> cars had a unique pump from the 10v 200's.  Or at least the part numbers are
> >>> different, 054 145 155BX for a rebuild from TPC vs. 034 145 155X for a
> >>> rebuilt
> >>> for an '87 5kt (which I have available).
> >>> 
> >> Probably just the seal type for the banjo bolts and maybe also the bolt
> >> size, as I recall.
> > 
> > I have heard of and read about people using the same pump to replace both "red
> > tag" and "green tag" pumps, and either 10vt or 20vt.  I have found another
> > 200q20v pump I can use, but I would like to know if these pumps are swappable
> > or if that is false economy.
> > 
> > I think my plan is to swap a known good 200q20v PS pump onto the car, and
> > reseal the existing one.  I may try to replace the seals in situ first, if
> > they are accessible.  I like that idea.  I just don't want to waste time or
> > Pentosin.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Ken
> > 
> > 
> 
>