CV Boots

Mon Mar 15 16:12:10 EST 2004


> From: "Mike Sylvester" <msylvester at verizon.net>
> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:17:53 -0500
> To: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>, "Derek Pulvino"
> <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
> Cc: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: CV Boots
> 
> About 10 years ago I inspected the inside of a rebuilt CV Joint and it had
> larger balls.
> Either it was re-ground or was made from a different outer race.
I strongly doubt that they were reground in a rebuild, inasmuch as these
ball races are case hardened and can not be reground without removing the
case, and such a setup would be very expensive.  Possibly oversize races and
balls are available to a rebuilder, but I'd be surprised if so.
> 
> I agree about the inner boot.  They almost never fail.  I'll say almost only
> because I'm sure someone has a BTDT.
> 
> I disagree about re-lubing if they are making noise.  The noise is most
> often because the outer race is damaged.
> Fresh lube will not repair or mask this damage.  Too me it is not worth the
> labor to do it a 2nd time (BTDT).
If cleaned, one can easly inspect the balls and races for pitting.  If none
the relubing will suffice (BTDT), otherwise replace the joint at that point.

Bernie
> 
> Mike Sylvester
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>
> To: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
> Cc: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 2:41 PM
> Subject: Re: CV Boots
> 
> 
>> Derek,
>> 
>> Dan is right, if all you intend to do is to replace the boot, the easier
>> method would be to disconnect the shaft at the inner CV joint and wriggle
> it
>> out as he described.  There should be no reason to replace the inner boot
>> unless it has suffered external damage, as its deflection angle is very
>> small so will/should never self destruct.  I would stay away from the
>> "rebuilt" shafts.  There is no way to rebuild a CV joint short of
>> replacment.  What they are selling is a shaft with reinspected and "deemed
>> OK" joints.  If yours haven't been making noises, and even if they have,
>> most probably will be fine after cleaning, inspection and relubing.
>> 
>> Bernie
>> 
>>> From: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
>>> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:23:32 -0800
>>> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
>>> Subject: RE: CV Boots
>>> 
>>> Well, I'll have to think about that rebuilt shaft idea, not that mine
> are
>>> bad, but I'm figuring it might make sense to do inside and outside boots
> at
>>> the same time...and the price for two-boots per side is probably about
> the
>>> same as that rebuilt cost.
>>> 
>>> Lifetime warranty, if only they'd  cover the labor as well.
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the info everyone, for some reason I just was under the
>>> impression there wasn't enough mobility on the inside of the drive line
> to
>>> allow one to take it out that way.
>>> 
>>> Derek P
>>> 
>>> 
>>>>> Can somebody tell, and hopefully in btdt fashion, what the easiest way
> to
>>>>> pull the front driveshafts is?  I just noticed that both of my outside
> CV
>>>>> boots are torn on the front of the car, the passenger side pretty
> recently
>>>>> as the grease is still getting thicker on the inside of the wheel.
> And is
>>>>> the tranny side CV attached with an 8-point drive screw/bolt similar
> to on
>>>>> the VW's?
>>>>> 
>>>>> From my recollection, by just taking the bottom of the strut off the
>>>>> ball-joint you won't get enough movement to get the shafts out.
> Although,
>>>>> now that I'm thinking of it, I guess the main nememsis (aka sway bar)
> is
>>>>> attached to the control arm, not the strut.
>>>> 
>>>> I just replaced the passenger side shaft on my 200. I don't know if
> it's
>>>> correct, but the pass side was held in the hub with a 17mm allen head
> bolt,
>>>> while the drivers side has a regular bolt head on it. And yes, the
> inner
>>>> joint is held on with the 8 (or 12) pt drives similar to the VW.
> However,
>>>> they are a different size than the aircooled VW's I've taken apart.
> DON'T
>>>> be tempted to use a 8mm allen wrench. It fits pretty tight, but won't
>>>> actually work. I used about 24" of socket extension and got the bolts
> off
>>>> through the wheelwell. Mine were on pretty tight!
>>>> 
>>>> I was able to pull the shaft w/o taking the upright or lower arm, or
> sway
>>>> bar off at all. With the wheel straight ahead, move the inner joint up
> and
>>>> to the rear, and push it out of the hub as far as you can. Then turn
> the
>>>> wheel to the outside (to the right on passenger side) and there should
> be
>>>> enough room to push the shaft the rest of the way out.
>>>> 
>>>> "Assembly is reverse of removal" :o) Be careful on reassembly to make
> sure
>>>> the gasket on the inner joint stays aligned.
>>>> 
>>>> Also, I was able to get a rebuilt CV shaft (Cardone 607160) from my
> local
>>>> Schucks for ~$56. And they didn't charge me a core either, so I kept my
> old
>>>> shaft and will clean the outer joint and re-boot it. Some friends have
> had
>>>> problems with Schucks rebuilt CV's, but with a lifetime warranty, and
> only
>>>> a few hours to replace, I gave it a shot.
>>>> 
>>>> --
>>>> Dan Cordon
>>>> Mechanical Engineer
>>>> University of Idaho - Engine Research Facility
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
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