Clutch pedal busted.

[Chuck Pierce]

Hello George
I had the same problem and you have to pull the clutch master cylinder 
to see that you will be replacing it. If some one had a master cylinder 
with a good rod you could replace it (the rod), but I figure if I am 
pulling the whole assembly I may as well put a new one in. I paid $72.90 
for one from Scott M. at SJM.
You do not have to pull the complete pedal cluster. It is a bit of a 
PITA. Two bolts, the fill line from the master cylinder and the fitting 
for the line going to the slave cylinder. The  biggest PITA was getting 
at the bleed screw on the slave cyl.. I had to break loose the bleed 
screw from the left wheel well with a socket and some long extensions 
and a universal in there some where. I believe my bleed screw was a 11mm 
and I cut down a wrench to fit in the HUGE space those engineers that  
designed the car left us to work with. If you find that the bleed screw 
is the same size I will see if I can find the cut down wrench and mail 
it to you. You are only a day away via the mail. If yo do not already 
have a brake bleeder check this one out, screws right on to the master 
cylinder ( look for the European version). 

 http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

This item works really well!!!  Beats getting someone to come out and 
pump the pedal, unless that is a way of bonding with the children.

Chuck Pierce
91 200tq 20v Avant





George Sidman wrote:

>Last night the clutch pedal on the '91 20 valve went to the floor with
>no notice, and stayed there. I just removed the knee crusher and
>heater duct to find that the rod from the hydraulic clutch cylinder
>broke off at the nut on the clevis to the pedal. This looks like a
>bitch of a job, which may include replacing the rod and/or cylinder.
>Any sage council or sound advice, including parts issues? Do I need to
>remove the entire pedal cluster just to get in there to fix it? Is
>Santa Claus real?
>  
>