200q20v Digest, Vol 13, Issue 3
jwmarconiiii
jwmarconiiii at sbcglobal.net
Fri Nov 5 14:49:50 EST 2004
I have a very nice Tornado Red rear bumper for sale off a 1991 200 TQ 20v.
I also have a ton of other great parts available.
$125.00 OBO plus shipping. Shipping would be about $80 via fed-ex to a
commercial address.
Reagrds,
Joe Marconi 419-472-4-7464 or 419-283-4068 Toledo, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <200q20v-request at audifans.com>
To: <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 9:45 AM
Subject: 200q20v Digest, Vol 13, Issue 3
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Rear Bumper Cover (Derek Pulvino)
> 2. RE: UFO front rotors/also looking for good used
> (Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com)
> 3. Climate control (Mike Del Tergo)
> 4. RE: Climate control (Henry A Harper III)
> 5. Re: Climate control (Kneale Brownson)
> 6. BTDT request - oil sensor / light / system behavior (Dave Haupt)
> 7. Re: Trap arms heads up (SuffolkD at aol.com)
> 8. Re: Trap arms heads up (Kneale Brownson)
> 9. FW: leaking fuel tank-heat shielding (Schaible, David)
> 10. winter oils (feelstranger)
> 11. Re: winter oils (Mike Miller)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:01:31 -0800
> From: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Rear Bumper Cover
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <BAY13-F35aSORH9HWP5000186f3 at hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> I'll soon hereafter check the clasifieds, but I'm wondering if anybody in
> here is parting out a pearl 200. Looking for a rear bumper cover for my
> car, and hopefully one that will match (reasonably close anyways).
>
> Somebody recently backed into the cover on my car, and while it's not too
> bad, she's wanting to take care of it out of pocket, so I'd like to try
> and
> take care of it cheaper that the body shop replace and paint solution...
>
> Anyone, anyone?
>
> derek p
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
> more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:05:49 -0500
> From: Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com
> Subject: RE: UFO front rotors/also looking for good used
> To: walbum at earthlink.net
> Cc: "Jagernauth, Stephen, WHLSL" <sjagernauth at att.com>, 200q20V
> mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Message-ID:
> <OF947F9C14.C3625C29-ON85256F41.005D9860-85256F41.005DEAE1 at whirlpool.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
> It sounds like you PA guys need to invest in one set of new UFO rotors
> that
> you could pass around solely for the purpose of getting inspected.
>
> Once you have the new sticker take off the new rotors and reinstall your
> old set which are still good.
>
> Then send the new rotors off to the next guy who needs a new inspection
> sticker.
>
> :-)
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 17:34:41 +0000
> From: "Mike Del Tergo" <mdeltergo at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Climate control
> To: 200q20V at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <BAY101-F32Xh3wFDxch000105c6 at hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> If the interior temp doesn't stay constant or goes from hot to cold on its
> own, and stays that way even when you make input changes to the
> controller,
> is the usual suspect the dash controller or the under glove box flap door
> motor and vacuum system?
> thx
> mike
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:48:36 -0700
> From: "Henry A Harper III" <hah at alumni.rice.edu>
> Subject: RE: Climate control
> To: "Mike Del Tergo" <mdeltergo at hotmail.com>, <200q20V at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <MPBBKALDIKKLPMJCCALLMENABOAB.hah at alumni.rice.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
>> If the interior temp doesn't stay constant or goes from hot to
>> cold on its
>> own, and stays that way even when you make input changes to the
>> controller,
>> is the usual suspect the dash controller or the under glove box flap door
>> motor and vacuum system?
>
> Could also be the stepper motor/feedback potentiometer that runs the
> mixing
> flaps, but one would think there should be some sort of climate control
> head
> error code in such a case. Have you run the Bentley climate control
> diagnostics?
>
> Henry
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 14:18:36 -0500
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: Climate control
> To: "Mike Del Tergo" <mdeltergo at hotmail.com>, 200q20V at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <4.1.20041103141122.00b5c7f0 at traverse.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> It's the little motor-driven flap controller that's attached to the driver
> side of the heater core box. The motor has an electronic part that
> apparently loses its effectiveness. I got a replacement motor for ~$60.
> You have to take off a cover that has half a dozen rusty screws to expose
> the motor. There's a write-up on Chris Miller's website:
> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/climate.html#Temperature%20regulating%20flap
>
> At 05:34 PM 11/3/2004 +0000, Mike Del Tergo wrote:
>>If the interior temp doesn't stay constant or goes from hot to cold on its
>>own, and stays that way even when you make input changes to the
>>controller,
>>is the usual suspect the dash controller or the under glove box flap door
>>motor and vacuum system?
>>thx
>>mike
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 14:33:48 -0800 (PST)
> From: Dave Haupt <quattrodave at yahoo.com>
> Subject: BTDT request - oil sensor / light / system behavior
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <20041103223348.77064.qmail at web53403.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> New symptom on an '89 10V200Q (but I think much of the
> audo-check system is the same).
>
> Thanks to leaking injectors, the vehicle must be
> cranked for some time (20-30 seconds) when warm to get
> it started. Lately, at about the 15-20 second mark, a
> high-pitched electronic "warning" makes itself heard,
> and an "oil" indicator shows up on the multi-function
> display on the dash. The "oil" indicator is an oil
> can with drops falling out of it - interesting
> animation, actually.
>
> The oil level in the engine is full. At the same time
> this indicator appears on the dashboard, the oil
> pressure gauge is showing about 1 bar (remember, this
> is while cranking, not after starting).
>
> The oil "warning" continues to display and sound as
> long as I crank. Ten seconds later, the engine
> starts, with the usual stink of too much fuel (the
> flooding is why it took so long to crank). As soon as
> the engine starts, the oil warning disappears, and the
> oil pressure gauge pops on over to full scale, 5 bars.
> After enough time for the engine and oil to warm up,
> the oil pressure settles down to the 1-3 bar range,
> depending on whether I'm idling or at driving RPM.
>
> Is this symptomatic of something actually failing? Or
> after this much cranking, are the instruments
> fundamentally not going to make decent measurements
> and incorrectly show an oil problem? Most surely, if
> I got the leaky injectors replaced, it would require
> only seconds of cranking, and I'd never get to the
> "screech and light" stage.
>
> What do the sage gurus of Quattrodom think on these
> things?
>
> Kindly,
>
> Dave
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 20:55:27 EST
> From: SuffolkD at aol.com
> Subject: Re: Trap arms heads up
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com, knotnook at traverse.com
> Message-ID: <ba.64049a1a.2ebae60f at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>
>
> Kneale:
> I have no idea what these are. What are they?
> -Scott by BOSTON
>
>> From: Kneale Brownson <>
>> If you purchase used trap arms, as I did recently with the plan of
>> replacing the rubber bits and then installing in one car and repeating
>> the
>> process for the three we have that use that design, be sure you get the
>> toe
>> adjustment brackets with 'em. Those parts (443 511 223C and 224C for
>> left
>> and right) cost over $300 apiece new. My seller didn't tell me until
>> after I got home with the trap arms that he planned to keep the brackets
>> because he knew how expensive they were. I'd figured I could just get
>> new brackets with the bolts and nuts.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 23:10:24 -0500
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: Trap arms heads up
> To: SuffolkD at aol.com, 200q20v at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <4.1.20041103230740.00b5ef88 at traverse.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Trap arm=trapezoidal arm=trailing arm in the rear suspension. Item 10 in
> ETKA
> image # 45-00. The little toe adjustment bracket that makes the lower
> attachment to the strut (wheel bearing) housing costs over $300 on each
> side.
>
> At 08:55 PM 11/3/2004 -0500, SuffolkD at aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Kneale:
>> I have no idea what these are. What are they?
>> -Scott by BOSTON
>>
>>>
>>> From: Kneale Brownson <>
>>> If you purchase used trap arms, as I did recently with the plan of
>>> replacing the rubber bits and then installing in one car and repeating
>>> the
>>> process for the three we have that use that design, be sure you get the
>>> toe
>>> adjustment brackets with 'em. Those parts (443 511 223C and 224C for
>>> left
>>> and right) cost over $300 apiece new. My seller didn't tell me until
>>> after I got home with the trap arms that he planned to keep the brackets
>>> because he knew how expensive they were. I'd figured I could just get
>>> new brackets with the bolts and nuts. Never dreamed they'd be that
>>> costly.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 14:15:43 -0500
> From: "Schaible, David" <David.Schaible at jrspharma.com>
> Subject: FW: leaking fuel tank-heat shielding
> To: <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Message-ID:
> <F79FB8356ABDA34D993B593CD1523C8F07CDC1 at jrsph2.jrspharma.pvt>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Schaible, David
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 1:01 PM
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: leaking fuel tank-heat shielding
>
>
>
> Fortunately my leaking tank was not at the seam but a pinhole just above
> it.......sealed it, coated every part of the tank accessible with rust
> converter and hi temp paint, put a layer of epoxy across the seams as
> well. While at it, I reconditioned the exhaust, welded two patches, one
> practically the whole bottom side of the mid muffler box, wire wheeled
> the whole thing and applied flameproof coating to everything but the
> tips. Far be it from me to tell folks what to do, but if you are a
> northeast lister, I encourage you to address the fuel tank seams,
> (fibib, fix it before it breaks, an exception to the Bernie rule) as
> fuel tank replacement is very costly to have someone else do or is a
> major hassle to do it yourself. I was happy to repair the exhaust for
> $5 (flameproof coating and some jb weld to seal some spots I couldn't
> weld) report from my friends shop is he is getting lots of v8 and 20v
> cars in now for exhaust repair.
>
>
>
> Question is- what have people done to reinstall the heat shielding ?
> issues are; rusted mounting screws or totally gone mounts, and
> prevention of stuff accumulating between shielding and tank. I was
> thinking I would just replace it as it was and use epoxy to hold the
> shielding to what is left of the mounting screws (no threads etc.) any
> ideas appreciated. tia
>
>
>
> Also said goodbye to the rs6 sedan that is now a wagon, chipped to
> 510hp, that my friend had at his shop, that would be a nice upgrade to
> the 20v avant.......but for ~$100K I don't think so.......and no, I
> don't exactly know why he imported a sedan and chopped it into a wagon,
> supposedly saved $35k or something
>
>
>
> David Schaible
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> JRS Pharma LP
>
> 2981 Rte 22
>
> Patterson, NY 12563
>
> 845.878.3414
>
>
>
> ALL STATEMENTS IN THIS CORRESPONDENCE ARE CONFIDENTIAL UNLESS OTHERWISE
> NOTED
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 07:48:10 -0500
> From: "feelstranger" <feelstranger at hotmail.com>
> Subject: winter oils
> To: <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY17-DAV176mJB526t00009fd4 at hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hello folks.
> Things have been so quiet here.
> Anyway, I wonder what people are running in cold weather areas like the
> NE?
> I an considering switching to synthetic for the winter. The car has never
> had synthetic in it as far as I know but that is not a problem anymore,
> correct?
> By the Book, 10W-30 is not for below about 5F and 5-30 is not for above
> about 15F. That's a tough overlap when temps in the morning may be -20F
> one week and day time highs in the 30's the next...
> Nat
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 06:45:13 -0800
> From: "Mike Miller" <mikemilr at blackfoot.net>
> Subject: Re: winter oils
> To: "feelstranger" <feelstranger at hotmail.com>, <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Message-ID:
> <011701c4c346$10c7c0b0$67d1379d at redmond.corp.microsoft.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: feelstranger
>
> By the Book, 10W-30 is not for below about 5F and 5-30 is not for above
> about 15F. That's a tough overlap when temps in the morning may be -20F
> one
> week and day time highs in the 30's the next...
> Nat
>
> I use Mobile 1 15w50 year round in MT. On those sub 0 mornings, the car
> starts just fine.
>
> mike miller
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 200q20v at audifans.com
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>
> End of 200q20v Digest, Vol 13, Issue 3
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