91 200 20v No Start :( field wire

[Schaible, David]

Thanks to all you who answered with possible fixes for my corroded field
wire on the starter.....oh, actually that was no one...... but the wire
is easily fixed by removing the starter and disassembling it.  Then you
trim out the corroded braided wire(s) where it attaches to the field on
the inside of the starter motor, take a length of 8 gauge copper
stranded wire strip and flatten one end, pry apart the two field
connections and insert the flattened end in between the connections and
bond with solder, cut wire to proper length and crimp a new end fitting
on other end. Make sure you seal it up good where it enters the starter
motor, I think I used the factory rubber piece and some hi temp silicone
caulk.  You also have the option to add extra shrink tubing to the wire
or heat insulation while you are there (not as bad set up for heat as
some of the other audis). 

I did find one reference in the archives which said to replace the
starter if the field wire goes but it really is a quick easy fix. While
you are screwing around in there you should also inspect the brushes and
replace if needed....i think the Bentley said 5 mm is time to replace,
mine were still ok in case you were concerned



David Schaible
 

 
 
JRS Pharma LP
2981 Rte 22
Patterson, NY 12563
845.878.3414
 
ALL STATEMENTS IN THIS CORRESPONDENCE ARE CONFIDENTIAL UNLESS OTHERWISE
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Swann [mailto:benswann at comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 11:34 AM
To: audi at humanspeakers.com; jercurry at comcast.net
Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com; quattro at audifans.com; Ben Swann
Subject: Re: 91 200 20v No Start :(

Or maybe do the "contrapositive" to what Huw suggests below.  Run 12 V
directly to the starter solenoid connector.  12 V available at jumper
post behind pass. side light.

I say this, because I have on more than one occasion deemed "dead
starter" when I saw the 12 V at the wire when the starter circuit
engaged by key.  The voltage was there, but the amperage was not enough
to even kick the solenoid.  That wire - the one that runs from the
fusebox to the starter tends to degrage - problem worse in saltbelt.
You may have a compound problem - wire going and starter going - I've
seen this too and one may lead to the other.

But I otherwise agree with Huw - diagnose!   Be methodical - finding the
culprit(s) may take as long as 3 hours, but seasoned mechanic familiar
with Type44 wiring will cut to the chase in under an hour.  Then add the
time to fix what is wrong - run new wire, replace starter, replace
switch, etc.

You can cut the trouble shooting down a little/ narrow the problem down
quicker by starting at the fusebox.  there is a jumper/relay(if
automatic) on the position for the autotrans relay starter lockout.  You
can apply 12 V to that and the solenoid should actuate - this goes
through to the wire I refer to.  before this, check that when starter
position by key that 12V appears here.  These problems are where the
Bently manual pays off.

Example - I currently have a 200q that has a problem with both segments
- no 12V from switch to the jumper in the fusebox and no/marginal
continuity from the fusebox to the starting solenoid.  To get the car
started for transporting to be worked on, I ran a #12 wire from the
jumper post located behind the passenger side light down to the starter
solenoid, touching the wire to the jumper post engages solenoid/starter
and with key on starts the car.  

Ben

[From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
Subject: Re: 91 200 20v No Start :(
To: jercurry at comcast.net
Cc: Audifans <quattro at audifans.com>, 200 20v List
<200q20v at audifans.com>
Message-ID: <41527C0D.4070506 at humanspeakers.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed


> No Click sounds like the switch.  Anybody have an idea how much that
should
> cost or how hard it would be to do?, didn't see how in the Bentley.

Diagnose, diagnose, diagnose.

Crawl under the engine and find the starter.  Get a meter or test light 
on the little connection from the "key" circuit.  Turn the key to start 
and see if 12V makes it there.  If yes, probably junk starter.  If no, 
wiring or ignition switch problem.  Doing this may require two people.

Also make sure battery voltage is present at the "big" connection.

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/]
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