Heat Less in the Carolinas
Phil Rose
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Sun Dec 4 14:58:21 EST 2005
At 5:18 AM -0500 12/4/05, TooManyAudis at aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 12/3/2005 11:01:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>kneale at coslink.net writes:
> Several years ago, I experienced the heat dropping
>off to cold air blowing out after 20-30 minutes of driving. If I bumped
>the requested temp up a couple degrees, it would heat more briefly before
>going cool again. I fixed that by replacing the temperature regulating
>flap motor. See Chris Miller's website for directions:
>http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/climate.html#Temperature%20regulating%20fl
>ap If you scroll down, there are pictures of the cover for the flap
>motor and of the flap motor itself.
>
>I believe that's what I was looking for. Bernie chastised me earlier for
>not providing enough information or running through some diagnostics before
>posting -- Between you and me, does this guy have a job, or is his job
>responding to posts at a moment's notice with something to make the
>rest of us feel
>like fools?
Ah Bernie just can't help himself. ;-)
> I have not yet torn into the car to
>verify -- May just do that after the Giants beat up on Cowboys on Sunday.
It's easy to diagnose if there's temperature flap-motor
(potentiometer) malfunction: Simply drive the car until the engine is
warmed up; then compare the readings on two CC diagnostic channels
(channels 8 and 9, as I recall). One channel shows the flap position
(coded value) that's being requested by the controller based on the
temp setting you've chosen, whereas the other channel tells the
actual position (coded value) of the flap. If they don't consistently
agree (should be the same--within a few units--after a short time),
you can assume there's a problem with the potentiometer (dirty, worn,
etc). A bad potentiometer can cause the channel output to swing
wildly to an extreme value--it likely will indicate a shut position
when you can't get any heat. The Bentley manual describes this in
more detail.
The potentiometer component could, in principle, be cleaned or
replaced, but I'd advise to replace the entire flap-motor assembly
and be done with it for the foreseeable future.
Phil
--
Phil Rose
Rochester, NY
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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