'91 200 20V Intermittent Start Problem
Phil and Judy Rose
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Sat Mar 26 19:24:34 EST 2005
At 3:56 PM -0800 3/26/05, Michael Palatas wrote:
>Car Particulars: Currently at 91K miles, was chipped with Stage III+
>at 80K miles - with Samco and all new coolant and breather type
>hoses. Pulled codes before and after chip - none present. Here are
>symptoms:
>
>Prior experience: Started after ignition key turn and 2 cycles max.
>
>Now - Sometimes: Turn ignition key, cranks fine, "starts" after 2
>cycles, release key, then dies immediately. Turn key again, cranks
>fine, starts after about 2 cycles.
>
>Now - Rest of Time: Turn ignition key, cranks fine, won't start even
>after about 12 cycles. Release key, turn it again, cranks fine,
>starts after about 2 cycles.
>
>Have checked battery and charging system - all SAT. Have replaced
>the distro cap and rotor (yes, narrow one). Any suggestions on what
>should be next?
A fuel-delivery problem can give some of those symptoms--e.g., it's
common to have a loss of fuel-line pressure from leaky injector(s)
or--more commonly--a defective check-valve on the fuel pump (with the
old, original-style "thick" pump). So, is your no-start problem more
likely to happen when a _warm_ engine is restarted (rather than if
it's "stone cold")? The check valve leakage rate often requires the
car to sit for about 30-60 minutes before causing a problem with
starting. But if the car sits for hours, the engine management senses
a cold engine and provides fuel enrichment that masks (or overcomes)
the initially low fuel line pressure. So the problem might seem to
occur at random intervals, but...there's a pattern. Replacement check
valve is a few bucks.
I'm sure others will be able to chime in with suggestions involving
ignition (electrical) system.
Phil
--
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* Phil & Judy Rose Rochester, NY *
* mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net *
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