Hot start-wont start

[Peter Schulz]

Forgot to say I replaced that too ( the FPR to fuel rail line) , gulp 
at close to $100 USD...

At 04:18 PM 8/1/2006, Steve Hauptmann wrote:
>FWIW, I had a similar experience. Did the same to my injectors, 
>replaced the pump and FPR.....still had an occasional no 
>startcondition that seemed to me to be random. Turns out the braided 
>S/S line going to the FPR was leaking...and intermittently at that. 
>It was leaking where the braided line joins the end...and I presume, 
>depending on vibration etc., it created an intermittent leak.
>
>Steve Hauptmann
>
>Peter Schulz <pcschulz at comcast.net> wrote:
>Ok, here's a good one for the brain trust..
>
>I've replaced the pump with the new style one, replaced all the
>brittle vent hoses around the pump, replaced the FPR and had the
>injectors cleaned, balanced and blue printed by Marren motorsports.
>
>Still have a hot start issue...
>
>I'm considering figuring out how to put a supplemental inline check
>valve on the pump...
>
>-Peter
>
>
>At 01:36 PM 8/1/2006, Phil Rose wrote:
> >At 12:21 PM -0400 8/1/06, James Miller wrote:
> > >Hello,
> > >
> > >I'm having issues with the car starting once it is warm.
> > >this is what is happening
> > >1.the car starts fine after sitting since the day before
> > >2. I drive 5 miles and stop and eat lunch
> > >3. when I return after 45 min. the car didn't start on the first try but
> > >fired up on the second try (it was about 80 degrees and the car was in the
> > >sun)
> >etc., etc.
> >James,
> >
> >This is a quite frequently discussed symptom. The hot/warm starting
> >difficulty is usually caused by a loss of pressure in your (car's)
> >fuel line. This can be caused by several possible problems (i.e.,
> >leaks):
> >
> >1. The brass check-valve that is screwed into to the top your (car's)
> >fuel pump is a very common reason for the symptoms you described;
> >it's also about the cheapest item to replace. However if you've had
> >the fuel pump replaced in recent years and the new pump is the
> >so-called "slim" type, there is no separate check valve to fail. So
> >best to consider other source(s) of leakage:
> >
> >2. One or more leaky fuel injectors ($$)
> >
> >3. Leaky fuel pressure regulator.
> >
> >In my car the answer was #1. A new check valve is very inexpensive,
> >although the replacement procedure requires as much work as changing
> >the fuel pump itself. If you still are using the original pump (and
> >especially if it's a noisy one) you might want to consider installing
> >a new pump. BTW, even if there had been a new original-style pump
> >("fat") installed in recent years, the old check valve may have been
> >reused.
> >
> >Phil
> >
> >--
> >*********************************
> >* Phil & Judy Rose Rochester, NY *
> >* mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net *
> >*********************************
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
>
>-Peter Schulz
>Chelmsford Ma, USA
>http://www.naaclub.org/
>
>1991 200 20v Q Avant Titan Grey
>1991 200 20v Q Avant Indigo Mica
>1991 90 20v Q Red
>
>1990 CQ silver (awaiting S2 engine transplant)
>1991 CQ silver (potentially replacing the 1990 for the transplant)
>1990 CQ red ( to part or not)
>
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