[s-cars] 3B Distributor

[Ed Kellock]

Wow, the link provided would have really been helpful when I was changing my
dist gear recently.

Ed


On 6/7/06, calvinlc at earthlink.net <calvinlc at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the response, Peter.  One more question, are there now little
> plastic bits floating around inside the engine?  And if so, how does one
> go
> about getting them out?
> --Calvin
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Schulz [mailto:pcschulz at comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 7:47 PM
> To: calvinlc at earthlink.net; 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] 3B Distributor
>
>
> Calvin:
>
> better to post this to the 200q20v list, but here goes...
>
> http://www.quattro123.com/Audi200DistributorRepair.htm
>
> You could consult Bentley manual, but it says to remove the IM which
> I found  unecessary.
> J have found that removing the ISV gives some additional room to
> access the 13mm Nut that holds the distributor to the head.
> But before that you will have to remove the distributor cap and deal
> with the anti tamper cover if the distributor was never before replaced.
> I used a combination of a dremel with a cutting disk and a chisel,
> but I think that cutting a slot into the bolt would allow you to
> remove it with a screw driver with less drama and work.
>
> Bernie Benz instructions on replacing the distributor gear with a
> plastic gear below:
>
> Bernie
> >
> >
> >
> > I.  Preliminaries: Bentley refs  3B: 28.47, early 7A: 28.250
> > (The Audi distributor alignment tool is not necessary.)
> >
> > 1.  Rotate the engine to #1 TDC.  Rotor pointing to #1 plug terminal and
> > 0-degree flywheel mark at pointer edge.  Get this right!
> > 2.  With dist cap and Hall sensor connector removed from the dist and
> other
> > junk out of the way (like the 3B intake manifold) as much as possible,
> note
> > the angular position relative to horizontal (3B), or vertical (7A)
> of the Hall
> > sensor connector and the rotor (these will be opposite each other) for
> later
> > return to original oriention purposes.
> > 3.  Remove the anti-tamper cover, if any, on the dist hold down clamp
> nut,
> > located on the stud in the head under the dist location hole, remove nut
> and
> > clamp.
> > 4.  Pull dist from its locating hole, noting that the rotor turns
> clockwise
> > about 1/4 inch as the dist gear is withdrawn from its mating cam gear.
> Upon
> > reassembly it must go back in with this same final removal
> orientation to end
> > up in the same original position.
> >
> >
> > II. Plastic Gear Removal:
> >
> > 1.  Don't try to drive out the retaining pin yet!  Remove the gear
> plastic
> > from its steel hub by hacksawing 2 or more diagonal cuts thru the
> plastic
> to
> > the hub, pry or chew off the pieces.
> > 2.  Note that both ends of the groove pin are swaged larger than the pin
> > center dia.  Saw off the smaller pin end and file it flush with
> the gear hub.
> > 3.  Support the gear hub and shaft in a suitable V block or vice jaws
> and
> > drive out the pin using a 5/32" dia pin punch or an old nail on
> the filed end.
> > 4.  Remove the gear hub and retain the shim washer pack for reassembly.
> > 5.  Remove the shaft, not loosing the fiber thrust washer at the
> top end, and
> > clean the dist body and Hall rotor.  If there is any oil in the
> distributor,
> > service the crankcase breather system.  (This distributor does not
> use a shaft
> > seal component, just a reverse spiral groove on the shaft in the top
> portion
> > of the upper bushing.)
> >
> >
> > III.  New Bronze Gear Installation:
> >
> > 1.  Install the original shim pack on the shaft, followed by the new
> gear.
> > align the smaller gear pin hole with the shaft pin hole.  (Do not use
> the
> > larger pin hole, it is a vendor goof.)  Support the gear hub on the far
> side
> > (not on the gear teeth) and tap the roll pin part way into the shaft.
> Check
> > the dist shaft axial clearance.  It must not be tight, but should
> have 2 to 5
> > thou end play, a "just perceptable free movement" feel without binding.
> If
> > not so, remove the gear and adjust the shim pack, + or -, as required.
> An
> > additional .003" thick shim is provided with the gear and roll pin to
> > faciliate this adjustment.  Add or subtract different thickness shims
> until
> > the end play is the closest to the "feel" spec.  Unlikely, but if more
> or
> > different thickness shims are necessary, they can be cut from
> paper and added
> > into the center of the shim pack.
> > 2.  Drive the roll pin thru the assembly and center it in the gear.
> Recheck
> > the axial clearance "feel".
> >
> >
> > IV.  Distributor Installation:  without VAG alignment tools.
> >
> > 1.  Remove the black plastic shield which may have been covering and
> > seperating the Hall area of the dist. body from the rotor.  Not all 20V
> dist
> > have this shield, which may be replaced just prior to reinstalling the
> dist
> > cap.
> > 2.  Notice that there is a line embossed on the top surface of the
> Hall rotor
> > immediately under the hot end of the dist rotor, and a mating line
> notched
> > into the top edge of the distributor housing opposite the Hall connector
> and
> > just above the Hall sensor unit.  When finally in place and locked
> down these
> > two lines must line up with each other with the engine at TDC.
> > 3.  With the dist and rotor lined up about as it was as you removed it
> (you
> > forgot where that was, didn't you?) insert the dist, moving the rotor as
> > necessary to get the gears to mesh.  Once all the way seated in
> place,  while
> > applying a slight counterclockwise finger bias to the rotor (thus
> eliminating
> > gear mesh clearance), adjust/rotate the dist body to exactly line up the
> two
> > marks, and lock it down (lightly, you may have to move it again) with
> the
> > clamp and nut.  If you are not happy with the resultant orientation
> angle
> of
> > the Hall connector, pull the dist just enough to free the gears
> and rotate the
> > rotor one gear tooth in the same direction that you would like to move
> the
> > Hall connector when the two marks are again lined up.  The distributor
> will
> > work in any oriention, as long as the two lines are lined up at TDC, the
> > actual oriention just facilitates the electrical connections to the Hall
> and
> > dist cap.
> > 4.  All 200 owners who elected to short cut and not remove the
> intake manifold
> > per Bentley, must now curse loudly at the Audi gods for the
> inaccessability of
> > the whole dist system and the dist cap hold down clamps in particular.
> 7A
> > owners need not comply.
> > 5.  "Reinstall all components in reverse order of removal".  More
> of Bentley's
> > sage advice.  If the engine won't start, recheck your TDC position for
> > accuracy and then the distributor marks alignment for its
> accuracy.  They must
> > be right on.  Do not attempt to move the dist with the engine running as
> you
> > did with those old point type dist, as this dist does not determine
> engine
> > ignition timing.  Thank you for flying united.
> >
> > E-mail if you have any serious problems with your installation or with
> these
> > instructions.
> >
> > Bernie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> At 09:27 PM 6/7/2006, you wrote:
> >Well I got bit by the 3B plastic distributor gear problem today.  I was
> >wondering if anybody had replaced this themselves, and if so is there a
> >writeup on it anywhere?  ALso, if anybody has a spare 3B distributor
> laying
> >around with the metal gear that they want to part with I would be
> >interested.  Thanks!
> >
> >--Calvin
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >S-CAR-List mailing list
> >S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
>
> -Peter Schulz
> Chelmsford Ma, USA
> http://www.naaclub.org/
>
> 1991 200 20v Q Avant Titan Grey
> 1991 200 20v Q Avant Indigo Mica
> 1991 90 20v Q Red
>
> 1990 CQ silver (awaiting S2 engine transplant)
> 1991 CQ silver  (potentially replacing the 1990 for  the transplant)
> 1990 CQ red ( to part or not)
>
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