steering wheel removal

[Kneale Brownson]

It's ridiculous to run all that voltage through the switch.  Audi should
have relayed the circuit initially.  The wire and switch develop increased
resistance as they age/corrode just from the atmosphere, let alone the
repeated heat/cool cycling.  The greater the resistance, the more heat
develops.  That's why the plastic deteriorates.  



At 03:21 PM 11/20/2006 -0500, Schaible, David wrote:
>Thanks for the info, I ordered a new connector from the stealer.  I was
>able to remove the melted connector. My concern was access to the
>connector sounds like I can remove knee panel and snip some zip ties and
>pull the wire bundle out for access.  The connector was like $12 and the
>pins were $4-$8 depending on the size. I opted not to order any pin
>connectors, I have an extra switch assembly.  This mainly makes me wish
>I had installed fog lamps to combat the SUV onslaught of above car
>height fog lamp usage during normal nite driving.  Then I could get by
>with city driving lites and fog lamps during the repair phase.
>
>
>There was significant corrosion on this wire.  I am thinking 290K miles
>of driving this wire gets insulation embrittlement.  Insulation comes
>off, corrosion starts, heat builds as corrosion increases resistance,
>one nite meltdown occurs, lites off suddenly on precarious corner at hi
>speed on mtn road.......could be not fun
>
>Anyway the first bundle zip tie broke upon just a light touch. So other
>plastic components prolly aren't very solid anymore.
>
>
>Fwiw-  this occurrence was preceded by a noticeable decrease in low beam
>illumination.  I did not measure lumens but it was noticeable to naked
>eye during nite driving.  This lasted about two weeks before meltdown.
> 
>This was probably preventable by PM of caig deoxit and reinsulation of
>wire or relaying headlamps.  I have run euro lites for over 200K w/o
>relay, and was getting great voltage at the headlamps.