Suspension parts source

[Bernie Benz]

Alan,

The only reason to remove the subframe is to inspect and replace  
subframe to chassis isolator bushings.
Being static isolators, no motion, I can see no reason why these  
would ever go bad. Mine certainly have not.

The lower control arm must be replaced if an outer ball joint is bad.  
I’ve replaced boots on ball joints and relubed these ball joints, but  
have never needed to replace the arm for a new joint. I have removed  
the lower control arm to inspect its rubber inboard bushing, always  
finding no problems. These generally fail in short order only if the  
suspension is not at SRH when its retaining bolt to the subframe is  
tightened.

The outer sway bar bushings to the control arm were snug, not loose,  
but I tightened them up a little anyway by grinding 1mm off the  
inboard end of the integral spacer tubes. The sway bar to subframen  
bushings are easily shimmed to tighten them up, if necessary.

So, IMO, no need to dismantle the car, just fix what needs it.

Bernie


On Dec 24, 2007, at 12:12 PM, <alancordeiro at att.net>  
<alancordeiro at att.net> wrote:

> I sort of agree with you, Bernie....but then again, I need to
> disagree, because I did it differently.
>
> Steve, you will be very happy when all the bushing are redone......
> the improvement is remarkable. As Bernie notes, not all bushings
> needed to be replaced........but I had already purchased a complete
> set, had the whole subframe off the car, and had to take it to my  
> friendly
> machine shop, so I told them to replace even the ones that looked
> pretty good.....I was not going to go in piecemeal.
>
> If you want to follow Bernie's selective replacement  
> suggestion.....you will need
> to disassemble the car first.......its only when the parts are off  
> that you
> can really tell which bushings need to be replaced.
>
> If I remember correctly, all the swaybar bushing were shot, and two  
> of the
> four subframe bushing were marginal as well. (I do not recall  
> which, the subframe
> was on the floor, and I don't remember which side faced front.)  
> Both the rear
> bushings on the lower control arm were bad as well.
>
> When the lower ball joint is off the steering knuckle, its a good  
> time to freshen
> up the grease in the boot. I have a large needle syringe from an  
> ink cartridge fill
> kit that will inject grease. There is enough room between the  
> tapered ball joint
> and the metal ring holding the rubber if you pull it upwards into  
> the narrower
> diameter section.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>
> To: "Steve Rissler" <steve.rissler at gmail.com>
> Cc: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 1:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Suspension parts source
>
>
> Don’t fix what ain’t broke! Isolate the bad parts. Most are good for
> will over 200K.
>
> Bernie
>
>
> On Dec 24, 2007, at 9:11 AM, Steve Rissler wrote:
>
>> Looking for a good source for suspension parts (bushings, control
>> arms,
>> shocks, etc.) for my 200q20v with 192K miles.  Thinking of
>> replacing this
>> stuff to restore that original ride.  Any feedback as well as BTDT is
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Steve Rissler
>> _______________________________________________
>> 200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
>
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