Drain Plug Threads

[Schaible, David]

Short of replacing the pan your options are limited based on how screwed
the threads are (pun intended).....you can clean them up with a thread
file or a tap.

You can jb weld the hole perimeter, drill and tap (I actually sealed a
huge crack in a boat motor block with jb which is holding nicely to this
day!)

Or try to weld some stick on there and do the same.

I don't remember too good but I think the 7a pan is interchangeable with
the 3b pan if you cant find a 3b pan....i recently sold a 7a pan for
$150 which is on the low side...i never looked for a 3b pan.

Fwiw- I always use a fresh crush washer with every oil change and don't
over torque the plug....i also used mobil 1 synth changed every 7-10k mi
depending on how bad I wailed on it and heated up.  I got 300k on my one
avant (which I will do a valve job on the 3b and throw in my urq!)



-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Winters [mailto:natewin at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 2:23 PM
To: Bernie Benz
Cc: 200q20V mailing list
Subject: Re: Drain Plug Threads

There is no M26x1.5 Helicoil...
Any other suggestions?

----- Original Message ----
From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
To: Nathan Winters <natewin at yahoo.com>
Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 7, 2007 12:42:04 PM
Subject: Re: Drain Plug Threads


Helicoil insert.

On Nov 7, 2007, at 9:03 AM, Nathan Winters wrote:

> Correct Paul did not say that, lets start a new subject for it then.
> If the sealing face is fine and the threads are not, what would be  
> a good solution?
> I don't plan on installing a drain valve, just need better threads  
> on the pan.
>
> Nathan
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> To: Nathan Winters <natewin at yahoo.com>
> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 7, 2007 11:50:54 AM
> Subject: Re: New lister, new car
>
>
> Paul didn't say that the threads were buggered up. He said that the
> plug came out easily after he ground off the plug's head, the
 flange
> face seal. But he may have buggered up the pan's face sealing
> surface. A simple fix for  this would be to 45 degree counter sink
> the surface to accept an O-ring on a new stock plug.
>
> The better way to remove such a frozen plug is with heat. Same system
> as removing a broken stud from a head.
> Build up the buggered hex head with a TIG or MIG welder until large
> enough to get a vice grip on it. The weld heat will have loosened the
> frozen plug or stud.
>
> Bernie
>
>
> On Nov 7, 2007, at 6:58 AM, Nathan Winters wrote:
>
>> If the threads are already buggered up, what solutions are there?
>> Next size up drill / tap?
>> Go to NPT?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Nathan
>>
>>
>
>




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