Now Yes Start and ~1.8bar

[Bernie Benz]

Ken,

Distributor rattle is caused by too loose a timing belt. Must be much  
tighter than that of a 10V.
Your WP o-ring will seal if all is clean and you sumpliment it with a  
film of Si caulk.
Give the car the “snake oil“ treatment to eliminate current and  
potential rotary shaft seal leaks. Full bottle of engine oil seal  
restorer in engine, ½ bottle in tranny, other half in rear diff.

Bernie


On Nov 23, 2008, at 2:23 PM, Kenneth Keith wrote:

> Yeah, I don't know what the deal is with the check engine light.  I  
> need to
> pass emissions, after failing the first time, so although I changed  
> the fuel
> and oil, plugs, ran some Seafoam through it, and O2 sensor, I  
> thought I'd
> give it a chance to tell me if there were any faults.  Now I've  
> also changed
> the fuel filter and fixed some vacuum leaks, as well as verified the
> function of the MFTS and TPS.  With no codes popping up, I guess  
> I'll get
> the free retest.
>
> I took it on the test drive and didn't even get out of the  
> neighborhood when
> I hit the overboost fuel cutoff at only 1.2 or so indicated (stock  
> gauge so
> far, but an analog gauge from my previous 200q20v is coming).  So I  
> head
> back home and check the WG diaphragm and lower hose.  All is good  
> there and
> reading SJM's site I almost suspected the MAF sensor, but then I  
> saw that I
> must have popped off the vacuum line to the FPR when I checked the
> distributor (vacuum! vacuum! vacuum!).  Popped that back on and I'm  
> seeing
> mostly 1.7bar (I saw 0.9bar with the key on, engine off earlier  
> today) and
> even 1.8bar for a moment.  To me it feels slow, probably because my  
> last
> 200q20v was at about 14psi and I recently drove that 2.0t FSI A3,  
> but I
> believe I am indeed getting full boost.  I have Ben Swann's 2.5bar  
> chipset
> to go in when I'm brave enough to crack into one of the ECUs and  
> solder in
> the 2.5bar PT (and chip sockets?), or find someone capable of doing  
> it for
> me.
>
> I bought some vacuum hose and I'll replace the underhood pieces.   
> The water
> pump is weeping, which may be from when I had to loosen it to move  
> the PS
> pump and bracket to get the radiator replaced.  The timing belt  
> looked very
> fresh so in trying to direct money towards the right things I think  
> I may
> replace the only water pump o-ring rather than throw a whole timing  
> belt
> regiment on it like I usually do (I thought I remembered the o- 
> rings sold by
> themselves without pumps, but I can't find them so I may be  
> thinking of
> thermostat o-rings, which are available.  Anyone know what size the  
> water
> pump o-ring is?).  The rear main seal may have a leak, so I've got  
> bigger
> fish to fry.  I'll try some seal conditioner first before I drop  
> the tranny
> for a few drips.
>
> I bought this car after it was sitting for maybe a year or more by  
> the PO,
> so I blame the very old gas for the poor emissions results (high NOX).
> Silly me jumping the gun trying to smog it before the old crap was  
> cleared
> out.  There is a lot of stuff I suppose that needed to be done on  
> this car,
> but having dealt with used 200q20v's before I think it's coming  
> together
> pretty well.  The driver door lock linkage was busted so I fixed that
> thinking I would also have to rewire the power window wires in the  
> jamb,
> because some didn't work, but I WD-40'ed the switches and they now  
> work.
>
> Since I was underneath looking at the rear brakes I threw on the stock
> catback from my wrecked 200q20v to replaced the multiply-perforated  
> one this
> one had.  Strange that the one on there was all one piece with the two
> mufflers, but the one from my old car had another joint between the  
> two
> mufflers, which was easier to handle.  I thought the water pump was
> warbling, but after feeling how loose the distributor rotor is I  
> think it's
> just distributor rattle (does it make noise at idle, or is that  
> just when
> coming off throttle?).
>
> This car like all the other 200q20v's I've been around has the hood  
> catching
> on the passenger wiper arm.  What's the fix for that?  Move the  
> wiper up so
> that it parks higher (unattractive) and/or pull the hood forward  
> slightly
> (seems to match up with the fenders fine like it is).
>
> I think something is up with the climate control, of course.  Aside  
> from it
> not blowing consistently cold with the a/c on, it almost feels like  
> the
> heater is on when it's on econ and set to a lower temp than ambient.
>
> Also, the autocheck seems to be really pessimistic about how many  
> more miles
> I have 'til empty.  When I'm just in the red or so it's already  
> claiming 30
> miles to go, etc.  I've taken it down to E with just a little more  
> room to
> go until where the needle rests with the key off, and it takes more  
> than 30
> miles to get there from when the autocheck starts warning.
>
> I was almost sad when this car wouldn't start, since I already have  
> one
> 200q20v pearl yard ornament that won't start.  I was hoping to, and  
> still
> plan to, use this running example to be able to swap and diagnose  
> the other
> one.  Once I get both running I'll have to decide which one gets  
> the RS2
> parts, suspension, and other stuff I had installed or planned for my
> previous 200q20v.  Or maybe I'll sell both and get an 95.5 S6 Avant  
> since I
> still would like to have one.  One step at a time though.
>
> Anyway I hope this one stays running.  Thanks for the tips and
> encouragement.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Kenneth
>
> On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 2:45 PM, <rbade12 at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Kenneth,
>>
>>  It is a bit puzzling that the pieces of the puzzle don't add up,  
>> the check
>> engine light and the fuel filter. Hopefully it's one of those,  
>> "well it's
>> working, not going to think about it" deals! Let us know how  
>> behaves on the
>> test run.
>>
>> Good luck
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Kenneth Keith <auditude at gmail.com>
>>
>> Ok, so the new fuel filter is in.  I check for spark and have  
>> spark.  So I tried to start it again and it starts and I have a  
>> check engine light.  I
>> pull codes and get 4444.  I turn it off and restart fine, and I  
>> notice that
>> the fuel pump actually doesn't make a noise until it's cranking,  
>> but the
>> clicking I heard before, which must not be the FP relay after all.
>>
>> Hmm.  I guess it's off for a hopefully 1.8bar test drive, AAA Plus  
>> card and
>> cell phone in hand (and my FP relay jumper and another FP relay).
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>> Kenneth
>>
>>
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