No start after TB????We Got Fire!!!!

[Kneale Brownson]

Upon the insistence of one of my advisers on this task,  who maintained 
the backfire meant the crank was 180 degrees out of time with the 
camshaft, I went through the painful process of  realigning as 
suggested.  I found I could loosen the waterpump bolts just enough to 
slide it into the loose belt position without leaking coolant.  I think 
the fact I coated the block and seal with a compatible grease before 
installing the pump helped a lot.  Once reassembled, with the auxiliary 
radiator back in place, I fired right up.

However, I did fail in my efforts to seal up the intake.  The gasket 
between the throttle body and intake manifold looked smooth and so I 
thought I'd be OK by just cleaning everything up.  First chance to get 
beyond maybe 1.3 boost, I got the big hit.   Guess I'll have to strip 
the old gasket off and apply a new one.  No time now because I'm already 
a week late in getting to Colorado, where we're heading tomorrow.

Anyway, thanks to all who helped suggest solutions to my troubles.

This has been a real ordeal for me.  Sunday, the 11th, I fell off the 
doorsill to my tractor cab, landing on my back five feet below.  I've 
had broken rib-type pain in my chest ever since.  X-rays showed nothing, 
but every move of my torso has been a sharp jab.  First couple days I 
couldn't do anything, and I originally was scheduled to leave last 
Thursday.  If I hadn't already taken the front off the car before my 
fall, I wouldn't have done the timing belt in this circumstance.


Kneale Brownson wrote:
> With a freshly charged battery this a.m., the engine would spin quickly, 
> but still no start.  I got a couple backfires and then quit.  I pulled 
> the plugs--#1 had a little fuel on it, the rest smelled of fuel (these 
> are new plugs), one through four had some black stuff on them, but #5 
> has none--looks almost like it isn't firing or isn't getting fuel, but 
> it smells of fuel.
>
> I've confirmed that the plug wires follow the firing order around the 
> distributor.
>
> I've rechecked the other connections in the engine bay and can't find 
> anything loose.
>
> Next step, I guess, is recheck the timing belt timing.  I'm correct, 
> aren't I, that the camshaft pulley's dot only aligns with the V mark on 
> the valve cover at TDC?   Even if I'm wrong, the new belt went on with 
> the same alignment of crank and cam pulleys as the old one.
>
> Can I loosen the waterpump just enough to remove the belt without losing 
> the $25 worth of Autobahn coolant I just put in?
>
> Kneale Brownson wrote:
>   
>> Got the car buttoned up after the new timing belt ran on track (idler 
>> pulley reset straight), and I get no start.
>>
>> Got an almost start  before the battery, which has been sitting for 
>> several weeks, started going low.  Charged it up and used the charger 
>> boost to augment starter operation.  Engine spun a lot faster, backfired 
>> once and no start.
>>
>> Camshaft and crankshaft orientation remained unchanged throughout the 
>> belt replacement procedure.  Used the locker to take the bolt loose.  
>> Both cam and crank moved a degree or two when belt was untensioned, but 
>> stayed that way until I put the belt back on.  Had to move the 
>> crank--and cam--slightly to get the tool back on, but ended up with the 
>> cam pulley dot aligned the same with the arrow on the valve cover as it 
>> had been when I loosened everything.  My TDC "gauge" in the front 
>> cylinder lined up at the mark I've used on it to do several other TBs, 
>> and every time I spun the engine by hand, it still came up to the mark 
>> when the cam pulley dot lined up.
>>
>> The other things:  I replaced the spark plugs with new correct plugs.  I 
>> had the throttle body off to try to fix an air leak at its mating with 
>> the intake manifold I discovered earlier with a pressurized intake 
>> test.  I used some carb cleaner to get the gunk off the throttle body 
>> and intake manifold before reassembling.
>>
>> Suggestions?
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>
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