Rotor and fuel filter

[Adam Gratz]

Scott-

Don't pull the distrib. I cut mine off with a small dremel. If you really
want the experience, drill straight down on the safety bolt to release the
distrib. Note the position before you pull it out by marking with a sharpie
or a nail,  at the dist shaft housing and the engine so you can line it back
up again. Turn the front crank pulley  until the center of rotor lines up
with the notch on the top of the distributor body. You will notice that the
rotor rotates about 15 degrees when you pull the distrib out. This means
that when you reinstall it, you will have to start with the rotor about 15
degrees to the opposite side of the mark on the top of the distributor. In
other words, as you are pushing the shaft back into the engine, you will
notice the rotor will rotate back the in the opposite direction. It should
rest close to the factory mark on the top of the distrib. Don't worry about
perfection, the Motronics will adjust the timing. Just get it close.

Don't forget, put some oil 5-6 drops, in the felt pad under the rotor. Also,
you will need to replace your plastic distributor shaft gear, and if there
is a source for one.  Otherwise you should replace the entire distrib.....
You may be tempted to keep the plastic gear and put it back in. Don't....It
will break and life will suck. Been there done that....

You thought you were just going to pop in a new rotor, didn't you :)

On the fuel filter question, I agree it is a function of mileage not time.
Also, a function of the quality of the tanks that you are buying fuel from.
Old rusty gas station tanks will be full of crud and water. One tank full of
watery gas and your fuel filter (which is paper) is mush. I always look for
gas at stations with newer concrete driveways which means newer storage
tanks. Also, a function of how often the service station changes their
filters on their pumps. It's also a good rule to never get gas while a pump
truck is filling up the station tanks as it stirs up the crud.

my 2c,

doc-


>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   3. resend distributor removal/intake manifold (Kneale Brownson)
>
>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 12:39:59 -0600
> From: Kneale Brownson <kneale at knitknacks.com>
> Subject: resend distributor removal/intake manifold
> To: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <4CBDE5FF.3030501 at knitknacks.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Tried my other email address and got a note my message awaits moderator
> approval.  So here's the resend:
>
>
> I'm trying to get the stupid glued-on rotor off the distributor on my
> 200q20v avant.  Tried crushing with water pump pliers, but could not
> budge it, so I'm assuming I have to remove the distributor to get access
> to the rotor.
>
> Do I have to remove the intake manifold to get the distributor out?
> Looks like I have the stupid security cover on the bolt to the
> distributor still in place.  When I look between the intake manifold and
> the valve cover, I see an elongated piece of metal holding the flange of
> the distributor, not a bolt head.  Should I be able to see the bolt head
> through that gap?  I don't have a gasket for the intake manifold.  Would
> I need to replace that if I remove the manifold?
>
> Is it necessary to glue the new rotor back on if I ever get this
> solved?  I'd think the distributor cap would prevent any riding up of
> the rotor on the shaft.
>
> Some A-hole replaced the rotor with the wrong one and solved the
> over-extended contact issue by folding up both ends instead of by trimming.
>
> If I get the distributor out (almost have to at this point), do I need
> the rotor pointed toward the mark on the distributor rim as I reinsert it?
>
>
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