hard start issue+ need steering rack

Sun Jan 23 19:31:13 PST 2011

Any mineral oil based hydraulic fluid will mix and work. Go to NAPA.

Bernie

On Jan 23, 2011, at 7:16 PM, PeterBergin at aol.com wrote:

> Does tractor hydraulic fluid mix with Pentosin? If so what kind or  
> weight did you buy.
> Thanks again.
> Pete
>
> In a message dated 1/23/2011 6:53:25 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> b.benz at charter.net writes:
> Reading back on your symptoms, sounds like it only leaks when very
> cold. And maybe leaks down a little over nite. If the latter,
> probably not the rack return line.
> Buy a gallon of much cheaper tractor hydraulic fluid for use until
> you resolve the problem, I’ve been using it in my PS for 10 years
> now. Put a full bottle of engine or AT stop leak in the fluid, might
> restore that seal. Do when hot and not leaking. Nothing to loose!
>
> Bernie
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 4:30 PM, PeterBergin at aol.com wrote:
>
> > It may be, I will check it tomorrow.  I know when I have shut the
> > car off after a drive and checked the level, than checked after it
> > sat overnight the reservoir was about 1/2 lower.  I assumed it was
> > due to fluid contraction after going to below zero.
> >
> > Thanks again Bernie,
> > Pete
> >
> > In a message dated 1/23/2011 5:16:56 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> > b.benz at charter.net writes:
> > Well that’s pretty definite! And I haven’t been in that area for
> > quite some time so don’t recall just how far the valve body extends
> > thru the fire wall.
> > Check your rack return line / hose to the reservoir for blockage.
> > Maybe disconnect from the reservoir and run into a can.
> > If not blocked, this seal, from your description, should be leaking
> > from reservoir head with or without engine running or steering  
> input.
> >
> > Bernie
> >
> >
> > On Jan 23, 2011, at 2:47 PM, PeterBergin at aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> That's what I hoped, however I can see it bubbling out of the
> >> shaft and dripping inside the fire wall.
> >>   No drips under the car. and everything looks dry. under the hood.
> >> Thanks, Pete
> >>
> >> In a message dated 1/23/2011 4:44:50 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> >> b.benz at charter.net writes:
> >> If the rack’s input shaft seal were leaking (or a hose or hose
> >> connector to the valve body) the fluid would just run down the  
> rack’s
> >> valve body and drip to the ground, outside of the fire wall. More
> >> likely you have a leak in your replacement hydraulic power brake
> >> booster dripping down onto the steering shaft.
> >>
> >> Bernie
> >>
> >> On Jan 23, 2011, at 2:27 PM, PeterBergin at aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> > Bernie, this is a strange one.  Had a leak at the brake booster
> >> > (lots of green gold under the carpet).  Would usually leak  
> shortly
> >> > after start up on cold mornings.  Bought a used one from Force 5
> >> > and had Anderson Motor sports install it (great Audi shop near
> >> > Minneapolis).  When it would leak, it would empty its self  
> quickly,
> >> > no puddle under the car and everything under the hood dry.
> >> >
> >> > Pick up the car and drove for two days and the same symptom  
> again,
> >> > looked under the dash with the motor running and could hear a
> >> > gurgling noise and could see Pentosin leaking inside the fire  
> wall
> >> > from the steering shaft.  Leaked until reservoir empty and no
> >> > steering or brakes.  Filled up went for a drive, no leak until I
> >> > started the car the next morning (very cold again).
> >> >
> >> > Some one told me the problem might be that I have a not OEM made
> >> > high pressure hose feeding the rack and it did not have the
> >> > pressure reducer in the hose.  Never heard of that before and I
> >> > have had the hose for at least 5 years.  Have rebuilt the pump
> >> > twice, put not for a long time.  Have gone through 6 cans of  
> green
> >> > gold between the two leaks.
> >> >
> >> > I am puzzled,  wonder if I have a problem with the reservoir  
> return
> >> > line?
> >> >
> >> > Still looking  for answers before I put big $$$ into a rack.   
> This
> >> > rack was a rebuilt short rack (what ever that means) that I  
> bought
> >> > from Blau and installed as a preventive measure when I did the
> >> > clutch at 160k, have 239k on the clock now.
> >> >
> >> > Any further input would be appreciated.
> >> >
> >> > Pete
> >> >
> >> > In a message dated 1/23/2011 4:11:12 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> >> > b.benz at charter.net writes:
> >> > I’m intrigued that you say that your rack is leaking “at the
> >> steering
> >> > column“ input shaft seal! Never seen nor heard of that!
> >> > Neither the input nor output shaft seals of the valve body are
> >> under
> >> > pressure, just reservoir return head pressure.
> >> > If you are absolutely certain that your leak is one of these  
> seals
> >> > and not the high pressure rod seal, the latter would show  
> fluid at
> >> > the center bellows not the valve body, I’d add a bit of engine or
> >> > auto tranny snake oil to the PS reservoir and drive the SOB  
> for 1K
> >> > miles.
> >> > Try this first, because the PITA is the R&R, not the rack  
> overhaul.
> >> >
> >> > I’ve overhauled 3 of these ZF racks and believe that they are
> >> > absolutely bullet proof excepting for the hard plastic (read  
> cheap)
> >> > high pressure rod seal. The last time, redesigning and replacing
> >> this
> >> > seal with an elastomeric quad ring with nylon back up ring.   
> Going
> >> > strong after >100K.
> >> >
> >> > Bernie
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > On Jan 22, 2011, at 6:16 AM, PeterBergin at aol.com wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > PS, any one know where I can get a good deal on a rebuilt
> >> steering
> >> > > rack,
> >> > > mine is leaking at the steering column.
> >> > >
> >> > > Pete
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
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