Sorting a 200q20v (no start, was low boost, not stalling anymore, heater, ...)

[auditude at cox.net]

Okay, so I verify that my BPV is fine as are the lines to it.  I disconnect the MFTS and it doesn't make a difference, so I focus on the TPS.  I take the TPS off and it ohms out correctly and under a microscope the solder looks a little old with what I would describe as crazing on its surface, but not tell-tale big cracks like I've seen before.  So, I desolder all the joints and replace them with fresh solder.  Looks good under the microscope and also ohms out correctly.  

I reinstall and go for a test drive.  It solved my stalling problem (which could have been alignment before although it did "click" with the throttle closed), but as I'm driving trying to see max boost, the check engine comes on.  I am only getting 1.3-1.4 bar, so I get home and turn it off and it won't restart.  I pull codes and get 2113, distributor hall sensor.

I'm not sure why the hall sensor would suddenly fail coincidental to my attempted fix, but that's what seems to have happened. Now I'm looking for the next step such as testing the hall sensor and/or swapping in a different distributor.

Any thoughts on how to proceed or how to approach this issue?

Thanks,

Kenneth

---- auditude at cox.net wrote: 
> Hi Robby, thanks for the response.  
> 
> I'm going to rule the BPV out specifically here from the keyboard for now, as I'm running an APR R1 valve currently and I believe the diaphragm is about as durable as a WG diaphragm.  It may be however that the signal hose has popped off or is leaking.  I'll check it all this weekend.  I do recall stalling as being a symptom of a failed BPV circuit, and I think that could explain my boost behavior as well.
> 
> By the way for a daily driver I would get a used Japanese mini truck.  It will be reliable, get good gas mileage, and have some good utility with the truck bed.
> 
> Kenneth
> 
> robert weinberg centaurus3200 at yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> "the stalling when pulling your foot off the accelerator in neutral is most 
> likely a worn out bypass valve. just buy the billet one from 034. BTDT.
> 
> see ya,
> Robby"