Sorting a 200q20v (starts, doesn't stall, has low boost, heater forever on, ...)

[auditude at cox.net]

Thanks to those who have replied with ideas.  I have an update.

Turned out the no-start was a broken plastic distributor gear.  I swapping in a bronze geared distributor and it starts and runs.  Still have the low boost issue.  I disconnected the MFTS again to confirm whether I had two overlapping causes for the low boost, before the gear broke.  Still have low boost.  It's actually indicating 1.2-1.3 bar on the factory gauge; I didn't check what atmospheric was reading with the engine off, but the turbo seems to be working fine but with a boost control issue or perhaps leak, but I don't think it's a leak because it doesn't have that "chunky" feeling of inconsistent peak boost.

Tomorrow I'll run the output tests and see if the WGFV is even working.  I may go ahead and get the stuff I need to pressurize the intake tract to check for a leak.  It really feels like baseline WG spring-only boost behavior to me however.  I will also swap in a different (not necessarily "known good") TPS to see if it does anything.

I can make out the slightest sound of the bypass valve whoosh when shifting/declutching.  I think the system is closed as it should be (it doesn't seem loud enough to me to be venting to atmosphere or anything like that, but I'm open to checking everything).

At least I have a bronze gear in there now and I know for sure the distributor is aligned properly.  Oh, and thankful that it runs.

I'll dive into the SJM diagnosis page steps and see what I come up with.  Thanks again for all the suggestions so far.

Kenneth

---- auditude at cox.net wrote: 
> Okay, so I verify that my BPV is fine as are the lines to it.  I disconnect the MFTS and it doesn't make a difference, so I focus on the TPS.  I take the TPS off and it ohms out correctly and under a microscope the solder looks a little old with what I would describe as crazing on its surface, but not tell-tale big cracks like I've seen before.  So, I desolder all the joints and replace them with fresh solder.  Looks good under the microscope and also ohms out correctly.  
> 
> I reinstall and go for a test drive.  It solved my stalling problem (which could have been alignment before although it did "click" with the throttle closed), but as I'm driving trying to see max boost, the check engine comes on.  I am only getting 1.3-1.4 bar, so I get home and turn it off and it won't restart.  I pull codes and get 2113, distributor hall sensor.
> 
> I'm not sure why the hall sensor would suddenly fail coincidental to my attempted fix, but that's what seems to have happened. Now I'm looking for the next step such as testing the hall sensor and/or swapping in a different distributor.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to proceed or how to approach this issue?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kenneth
> 
> ---- auditude at cox.net wrote: 
> > 
> > I'm going to rule the BPV out specifically here from the keyboard for now, as I'm running an APR R1 valve currently and I believe the diaphragm is about as durable as a WG diaphragm.  It may be however that the signal hose has popped off or is leaking.  I'll check it all this weekend.  I do recall stalling as being a symptom of a failed BPV circuit, and I think that could explain my boost behavior as well.