Re: Stuck brakes

[quikqtr@yahoo.com]

Doc, if you must drill, start with a good penetrating oil, stress relieve the threads with a 1/4" punch (or similar) and a Sharp Blow.
With an angle drill (reverse drill and bits preferred) use a 5/16" drill bit and kiss the top of the broken stud.
This accomplishes three things...
#1: it removes the hardened stud surface where it fractured.
#2: it helps to place a fresh conical indentation the center of the stud making it easy to locate center for next step of drilling.
#3: it removes the damaged / pulled aluminum Threads in the head making it easier to back out the broken stud.
I then carefully drill all the way through the stud (without drilling for coolant or oil!), you can feel the drill " catch" as it breaks through the back side of the stud into the small cavity before hitting aluminum...
If your in luck the stud will already have spun out with the reverse drill action.
If the stud is still there I shoot more penetrating oil into the back of the stud through the hole and hit it again with the punch.
I then tap a splined extractor in the stud, slip the tools splined nut over the extractor, put a wrench on it and back it out...
Note: job pays 50 Tus each stud (after manifold(s) have been removed).

Happy Drilling Doc

Later, Randy

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G I got from www.randymueller.acnrep.com

----- Reply message -----
From: "Adam Gratz" <adamgratz at gmail.com>
Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 8:19 pm
Subject: Stuck brakes
To: "200q20v at audifans.com" <200q20v at audifans.com>

Temp dependent master cylinder issue. Try flushing first, pump brakes
with engine running to bleed. Sludge won't clean out from pressure
bleeding alone. I actually flushed straight brake clean once,
overkill.... When I was switching to silicon brake fluid.

Hey, anyone have a jig for drilling out a broken exhaust stud? I
REALLY don't Want to pull the head.....

Pretty please? I'm desperate in Hawaii.

Doc-


On Jul 8, 2011, at 9:00 AM, 200q20v-request at audifans.com wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
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>   1. Re: Audi Brake Issues (Bernie Benz)
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 12:41:41 -0700
> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> To: "Dave Defferding" <mstrblastr at comcast.net>
> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: Audi Brake Issues
> Message-ID: <20334767-5C62-4C11-BFDB-23A145FE963B at charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
> Dave,
>
> No experience with the caliper lock when hot syndrome.
>  But if all calipers lock at once and to the same degree, has to be
> the MC not releasing the brake hydraulic pressure back to the reservoir.
> If the MC, can only be influenced by the temperature under the hood,
> not caliper temp.
> MC piston must return to its at rest position to uncover the
> reservoir bleed/ feed port.
> Sludged up MC or PB servo not allowing piston full return?
>
>
> On Jul 7, 2011, at 12:21 PM, Dave Defferding wrote:
>
>> Hi Bernie,
>>
>> I've been going to write you, as I've (my car that is) has
>> experienced the caliper lock when hot syndrome a few weeks ago...
>> They released when everything cooled off and I drove home a few
>> miles using only the parking brake to stop.  I have flushed the
>> system every two years, but haven't dissambled and cleaned the
>> front calipers-- don't rag on me too hard...  I'm guessing, as
>> others have mentioned the "sticking" problem is in the master
>> cylinder and not the calipers though.  Remove it and flush
>> thoroughly perhaps??  Give me you input please.
>>
>>
>> Dave D
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>
>> To: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>; "Audi 20V"
>> <20v at lists.20v.org>
>> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 11:34 AM
>> Subject: PS pump head leaks, more than you ever wanted to know.
>>
>
>
>
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