4500rpm cutout and boost in neutral. Codes 2223 and 2342

Wed Apr 4 06:06:20 PDT 2012

Dan - I see that you checked all the timing references, and you're
confident in the distributor.  But your symptoms remind me of VEMS Launch
Control, which works by severely retarding ignition timing:

http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/article_info.php?articles_id=12

Check out this video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28cRtFDeBYY  - sound
familiar?

Mike

On Wed, Mar 28, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Dan Bozga <audisport44 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>     Hello everyone,
>
>     I haven't been part of the list for some time now but I'd like to
> revisit an issue I've had with my 200. I didn't have time to mess with the
> car due to other priorities but I'd like to see if I can figure out
> the problem this time around.
>
>    The car is a sedan with almost 200k on the odometer.
>
>    My main concern is that I cannot rev the engine past about 4500 rpm. It
> gets stuck at that point and the tach needle bounces as if it's hitting a
> rev limiter. While this happens you can hear the car misfiring severely.
> The car acts this way wether it is in neutral or under load. Also easing
> onto the gas is the only way you can even get it up to 4500. If you try to
> give it too much it'll choke right away and start misfiring. The weirdest
> part is that it actually builds boost in neutral. I know I've said this
> before and nobody on here believed me so I'm including a video of  the
> phenomenon. The digital gauge in the car says it's building boost and so is
> the mechanical one I temporarily hooked up(this is a verified good gauge
> that I used in my B5 S4). The video shows vacuum at idle and boost when it
> hits that cutoff. Also you can see the tach and where it stops when you rev
> the car. It will never go past that no matter what you do and what the
>  condition is.
>
>    Here's a list of things I've done to try and track this down:
>
> -Pressure test (all good and held at least 20psi from what I recall)
> -Replaced ecu with another good unit
> -I did a fresh headgasket, valve job and timing belt (timing is on 100%),
> I can attest there is nothing physically wrong with the engine
> -Cams were checked for alignment at tdc and the Os line up as they should
> -Replaced O2 sensor with original bosch unit
> -Replaced altitude sensor with good unit
> -New fuel filter
> -New line from bypass valve to intake manifold
> -Took bypass valve, spark plugs and wastegate frequency valve from my B5
> S4. None of them made a difference
> -Checked wastegate and it moved freely, not stuck. The diaphragm is also
> free of holes
> -The car has no cats, they were gutted by previous owner
> -I also disconnected the catback just to be sure so I can say the car
> isn't choking from clogged exhaust
> -Took apart throttle position sensor, all contacts were good. I also
> measured it and it checked out
> -Tested hall sensor and it checked out
> -Tested RPM sensor and also replaced it with known good unit, which didn't
> help
> -Checked all teeth and timing reference sensors on flywheel, nothing was
> amiss
> -I believe I replaced the timing sensor too, which of course didn't make a
> difference either
> -Maf was tested by someone and was told it checked out
> -Checked pretty much every connector under the hood to make sure it had
> the right values and no faulty wiring
> -Checked wiring leading to ecu, relays and fuse panel as best as I could.
> Didn't see anything odd
> -Did output test, everything was normal. I don't think the carbon canister
> solenoid(or whatever it's called) was getting a signal though
> -It makes no difference if the car is hot or cold. It always runs the
> same, sometimes it will start to idle very rough too and not really want to
> move at all
> -Cleaned idle stabilizer valve
> -Tested air temp sensor, which was fine
> -All fuses are there and not broken
> -Distributor has metal gear, no teeth cracked or broken on it or the
> camshaft
> -I noticed some arcing from the distributor area one night while the car
> was idling, if I remember correctly it was around the hall sender
> -The temperature gauge isn't always receiving a signal
>
>    My brother was in front of me driving the car one night and it just
> wouldn't go anywhere(worse than before), then he said all of a sudden(and I
> saw this), the car took off as if something unclogged and it just pulled to
> 80mph. After that it started bucking again and never got "un-stuck" again.
> While I was behind him I saw a few little bright red pieces comming out the
> exhaust. They looked a lot like bright burning ash.
>
>    When the car hits that 4.5k limit, you can hear a clicking in the ecu,
> like a relay. And the wastegate frequency valve will frantically start
> clicking away too once you've let the gas go. I've heard it under the hood
> quite a few times.
>
>    Anyways, I'm not sure what else I can say about all this....I'm sure
> there are things I did which I forget. If I recall something else I will
> post it on here. Or if you have any questions about a particular part you
> didn't see checked, let me know.
>
>
>     Do our cars have this issue at all? This is something about a 4k
> cutoff due to faulty brake light on intended acceleration:
>
> http://www.intendedacceleration.com/tip_2.html
>
>
>
>    And lastly, here is the video I recorded. It shows exactly what my car
> is doing:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STydKk6Ja28
>
>
> Thanks and sorry about the long e-mail. I just tried to include everything
> before I'm asked what I've done to diagnose this :)
>
> Dan
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