Convert/retrofit to R134a or stay R12?

[Kenneth Keith]

So far what I’ve done is paid my $40 for “diagnosis” (“hey, your compressor is bad), and taken my car home.  I was/am planning on looking into a parallel flow condenser and new barrier hoses, and maybe an upgraded evaporator from http://europeancoolerair.com/ftrmkt01.htm if it’s still available, and a new compressor.  This would let me get the most out of a R134a retrofit if I go that way now or in the future, but my thought on it for now was that I will get some R12 off Craigslist for about ~$40/can and go that way rather than the $80/can the shop would charge.

If my compressor can be salvaged, then I suppose I’d want to go that route.  However, the “diagnosis” I paid for didn’t break down which part of the compressor was leaking.  I think he just looked at it and saw dye around the outside and determined it was bad.  I haven’t gotten a chance to look at it myself, nor to take measurements of the stock condenser to see what parallel flow versions are the closest fit.

Are there any parts of this Audi retrofit kit that are useful or necessary for a conversion on our cars?  Specifically, I’m wondering about the different pressure relief valve that’s included, which is not something I think is changed on the “$40 retrofits” where just the fitting adapters are added.

C system R-12 to R-134a retrofit guide

I believe that kit, if I can find one, would include the manifold o-ring you mention is a potential leak source.  The kit seems to be around $333 or so if it can be found.

Thanks,

Kenneth

From: Tony Hoffman 
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 5:19 AM
To: SAJanesick - Bellsouth 
Cc: auditude at cox.net ; 200q20v at audifans.com 
Subject: Re: Convert/retrofit to R134a or stay R12?

One other thing to mention, now that you said about the oil leak from the compressor.

The "manifold" that bolts to teh side of the compressor. It is a two piece design, with an o-ring between the two pieces. Very common leak point. Just fixed this on both my 100 and a customer's 100. Did a 200 last summer. What I have done is take it apart, clean everything very well. Then, I silicone the area where the o-ring seals. I have put the o-ring back in, then let the silicone fill in the "low areas". I like to use the grey reinz silicone that is OEM for late model Audi oil pans.

HTH,
Tony


On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 8:40 AM, SAJanesick - Bellsouth <sajanesick at bellsouth.net> wrote:

  Kenneth -

  When I tried a direct R134a replacement, I not only got mediocre cooling, but it also leaked over time.  High side pressure when running dropped by about 50% over the next 4 weeks.  I think my leak was mainly in the compressor as it would leave a drop or two of oil every day on the floor.  I assume the compressor has a poor seal and perhaps the R134a is carrying some lubricant out with the leak, but who knows?