Fuel pump woes

[Robert Bade]

Thanks for all the help you guys!

I have tried jumpering power to the fuse panel per Bentley's instructions which call for a single wire jump to slot 52. You say 2 slots? The engine was fine when I pulled the # 13 fuse to relieve some fuel pressure. It hasn't run since. I have considered crossed wires with the new pump, but, that isn't a factor because I have no power getting to it. 

I'm going to give it a weekend off, come back fresh next week. Again, all of your help makes a big difference! Thanks!

Bob

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Kneale Brownson <kneale at knitknacks.com>
To: 200q20v <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Fri, Jun 21, 2013 9:55 am
Subject: Re: Fuel pump woes


The timing between the crank position and the dizzy should be correct if 
the engine ran before.  That relationship wouldn't have changed.

You can make the fuel pump run--if it's OK and wired properly--by 
jumpering the two large slots in the fuel pump relay spot on the 
fuse/relay panel under the hood.

If you used a new, smaller fuel pump and had to install that different 
wire from the pump to the fixture at the top of the tank, maybe you 
misdirected the wiring?  I think SJM has details on his website.

On 6/20/2013 3:20 PM, Kenneth wrote:
> Speaking of the other sensor, I think another thing to watch for for no-start 
situations is that if the signal from the hall sensor in the distributor has to 
coincide with the signal from the timing sensor on the bell housing that looks 
for the flywheel pin to determine crank position.  The dizzy hall sensor 
distinquishes between compression and exhaust strokes, etc.  If the two signals 
don't overlap, then I would imagine it also wouldn't start.
>
> I would imagine tho', that those crank/distributor position sensors have more 
to do with whether a spark is sent than if the fuel pump runs.  I would expect 
the fuel pump to run if the rpm sensor alone was sending a signal.
>
> Does the fuel pump cycle when you turn the key to "on?"  On my car you can 
hear it run for a moment when you turn the key on, before cranking.  If the pump 
doesn't do that then I would look at something other than the timing sensors.
>
> Kenneth
>
> ---- Kneale Brownson<kneale at coslink.net>  wrote:
>> Don't forget there are two sensors, the engine speed and the timing, and the 
ECU needs a good signal from both to allow a start.  If they're OEMs, they're 
old!!  They're not as exposed to heat as on a V8,  but they still can fail.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 20, 2013, at 2:01 PM, Kenneth<auditude at cox.net>  wrote:
>>
>>> FWIW, I've heard of heat-related (and possibly possibly intermittent) 
failure of the timing sensor.
>>>
>>> Jay Kempf<jkempf at madriver.com>  wrote:
>>>> The relay is powered only when the computer let's the car run. The computer 
has to know the car is either trying to start or running to allow the fuel to 
flow. The computer can only know if the engine is running if it sees a signal 
from the crank position sensor. So if either the computer is dead on that 
channel, the crank position sensor is dead or intermittent or the wiring from 
the crank position sensor to the computer or to the relay is out you won't get 
any power to the relay
>>> .>>Robert Bade
>>>>> Short version of where I
>>>> am. Replaced the steel fuel lines, didn't know the age of the fuel pump
>>>> so replaced it [it was original], replaced the fuel filter. I did
>>>> nothing electrical other than the new connector to the fuel pump. My
>>>> problem, I get no power to the fuel pump. I jumpered power to slot 52 of
>>>> the fuel pump relay mount [#10] and get no power back at the fuel pump
>>>> harness. It gets odd now, I checked continuity of the wires from fuel
>>>> relay mount to the fuel pump harness and both power and ground are fine.
>>>> It makes no sense! Am I missing something obvious? Fuses are good,
>>>> battery is good. The Audi gods have been testing me lately, seriously
>>>> pushing me.
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