Diff plugs (Jay Kempf)

[Bernie Benz]

All 44 chassis (and others) manual tranny Quatros use a torsen for the center diff and open or locking diffs front and rear.
Auto tranny Quatros were never built with a center torsion diff, so Audi put it in the rear on the V8 for some limited slip capability. Makes a very desirable upgrade for any TQ, two torsions being better than one.

Bernie

On Sep 22, 2013, at 2:46 PM, Adam Gratz wrote:

> How does it differ from the stock 3B?
> 
> On Sep 22, 2013 1:25 PM, "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
> Doc,
> The V8 torsen rear end is a prized upgrade for the URS4 and 6 people.
> Bernie
> 
> On Sep 22, 2013, at 12:23 PM, Adam Gratz wrote:
> 
> > Jay
> >
> > I think you would be much better served by buying a good used west coast
> > subframe with diff intact. Replace subframe bushings and then swap the
> > whole thing out. Repack the rear driveshaft CV while everything is out.
> > Just make sure you are buying a 4:11. Not sure what gears the V8 runs.
> > Anyone know for sure?
> >
> > Doc
> > On Sep 22, 2013 12:00 PM, <200q20v-request at audifans.com> wrote:
> >
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> >> Today's Topics:
> >>
> >>   1. Diff plugs (Jay Kempf)
> >>   2. Re: Diff plugs (Bernie Benz)
> >>   3. Re: Diff plugs (Jay Kempf)
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 1
> >> Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 19:28:27 -0400
> >> From: Jay Kempf <jkempf at madriver.com>
> >> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> >> Subject: Diff plugs
> >> Message-ID: <523E2B9B.1060809 at madriver.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> >>
> >> Hi guys,
> >>
> >> Fortunately the car is exactly at the right height for a standing
> >> plumbers torch on the floor to go right into the lower plugs. Heated
> >> them a lot and soaked and heated, repeat... No dice. Tried beating
> >> inward on the 17mm allen key I have to loosen the corrosion, no dice.
> >> Tried all this for many cycles for days with breaker bar and am not
> >> willing to strip the plugs yet. So I am looking at removing the diff to
> >> get the thing up on the bench where I can use some other solutions. The
> >> main problem is the plug in the axle flange, the fill, which was
> >> partially stripped even before I started. Would like to be able to put
> >> an entire clean rear end assembly and so I am looking at removing the
> >> forward and rear crossmembers in that area. But all that stuff is
> >> corroded too. The rest of the car not bad at all. I have naval jelly and
> >> other penetrating compounds to try yet but if I go there I will go after
> >> removing all of the rear suspension to make it all right.
> >>
> >> Thanks for the help.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> jfk
> >>
> >> 802 272 5868
> >> jkempf at madriver.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 2
> >> Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 17:02:11 -0700
> >> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> >> To: jkempf at madriver.com
> >> Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com
> >> Subject: Re: Diff plugs
> >> Message-ID: <BE8B0954-EAF9-4B13-8831-8A3E1AC0A864 at charter.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
> >>
> >> How do you know that you have a bearing problem?
> >> Leaking seals are obvious, but if enough leaks out they won?t leak any
> >> more, causing bearing and gear problems.
> >> Obviously never been topped off if you can?t remove the fill plug.
> >> One can?t really beat on an L shaped Allen wrench.
> >> Cut an Inch off of it and pound on that with a BFH before applying a
> >> socket to it.
> >>
> >> As a last resort, I have a good Torsen V8 diff for you.
> >> Bernie
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sep 21, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Jay Kempf wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi guys,
> >>>
> >>> Fortunately the car is exactly at the right height for a standing
> >> plumbers torch on the floor to go right into the lower plugs. Heated them a
> >> lot and soaked and heated, repeat... No dice. Tried beating inward on the
> >> 17mm allen key I have to loosen the corrosion, no dice. Tried all this for
> >> many cycles for days with breaker bar and am not willing to strip the plugs
> >> yet. So I am looking at removing the diff to get the thing up on the bench
> >> where I can use some other solutions. The main problem is the plug in the
> >> axle flange, the fill, which was partially stripped even before I started.
> >> Would like to be able to put an entire clean rear end assembly and so I am
> >> looking at removing the forward and rear crossmembers in that area. But all
> >> that stuff is corroded too. The rest of the car not bad at all. I have
> >> naval jelly and other penetrating compounds to try yet but if I go there I
> >> will go after removing all of the rear suspension to make it all right.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the help.
> >>>
> >>> Regards,
> >>>
> >>> jfk
> >>>
> >>> 802 272 5868
> >>> jkempf at madriver.com
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> 200q20v mailing list   http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 3
> >> Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 09:28:44 -0400
> >> From: Jay Kempf <jkempf at madriver.com>
> >> To: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> >> Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com
> >> Subject: Re: Diff plugs
> >> Message-ID: <523EF08C.8090704 at madriver.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> >>
> >> The car was well maintained for a long time and checked and topped up.
> >> Then I built this house and the project got away from me for a year and
> >> the car sat. When I got the shop done it sat some more before I could
> >> get to it. Probably 4 years it sat. Mainly indoors heated except for one
> >> summer.
> >>
> >> When I started the car finally after going through everything and
> >> started to run it in there was a horrible scream from the back and then
> >> the seal started leaking badly. So I assume the bearing was dry or had
> >> some rust or something stuck in it that then cleared and that took the
> >> seal out as well. So I started in to just get the plugs out to make sure
> >> that I could drain and fill and was removing everything to get at the
> >> front pinion shaft cover on the diff. First I had to cut off the front
> >> cross member because it is pretty badly corroded. Now I am thinking get
> >> the diff out and pull the guts out and just take it to my friends
> >> machine shop and have him remove the plugs and fix the threads. I never
> >> understood why the giant 17mm tapered plugs. It's just an oil drain.
> >> Could have been a 6mm coarse bolt with a crush washer.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> jfk
> >>
> >> 802 272 5868
> >> jkempf at madriver.com
> >>
> >> On 9/21/2013 8:02 PM, Bernie Benz wrote:
> >>> How do you know that you have a bearing problem?
> >>> Leaking seals are obvious, but if enough leaks out they won?t leak any
> >> more, causing bearing and gear problems.
> >>> Obviously never been topped off if you can?t remove the fill plug.
> >>> One can?t really beat on an L shaped Allen wrench.
> >>> Cut an Inch off of it and pound on that with a BFH before applying a
> >> socket to it.
> >>>
> >>> As a last resort, I have a good Torsen V8 diff for you.
> >>> Bernie
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 21, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Jay Kempf wrote:
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
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> >>
> >>
> >> End of 200q20v Digest, Vol 118, Issue 5
> >> ***************************************
> >>
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