warm hard start problem

[match]

There are quite a few maybe's.... unfortunately. Flywheel sensors as mentioned, distributor sensor (heat soak), loss of residual fuel pressure (rest pressure) from flaky accumulator or check valve. Then there's leaky injector(s) dripping fuel into cylinder after shutdown (it did sit for 4 years  right?). You probably should take note of what transpires when it does start. Does it smoke or run really rough, then clear up? Try pouring cold water on the flywheel sensors to cool them off (I've even used Co2 extinguisher), take the dist. cap off and spray some computer duster air on the sensor, leave the cap of for a minute. Don't overlook the distributor sensor connector if those 4(?) blade terminals move a little bit you will get a intermittent situation. (That's why the terminal connector comes with a small plastic rivet to secure it to the dist. housing. Lot's of McGuivered ty-wrap fixes in use.) And last but not least got to http://sjmautotechnik.com/
 for his hot/no start guide.. Good luck this can be a bugger to correct at times.




On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 3:47 PM, Kenneth <auditude at cox.net> wrote:
 
From: "Lavine, David" <David.Lavine at energizer.com>
> 
> Car was sitting for 4 years, fresh oil etc etc.
> It will fire right up when cold and drives fine, if you turn it off and try to restart it while it is warm it doesn't want to fire up. Any ideas?

The RPM and crank position sensors in the bell housing are supposed to be sensitive to heat when they start failing.

Oh, did you pull codes?
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