N75 WGFV boost valve NFG

[Kenneth]

Also, if I buy a new valve, which “letter” should I go with?  My ECU is chipped with a 3.0 bar PT for 37-8lb/hr (I don’t recall which) injectors, RS2 EM/turbo, 7A cams, and a 3” turbo back.

It looks like I can go with an H or a J.

>From http://store.034motorsport.com/boost-control-valves-n75-21039.html :

“We now stock 4 of the most popular N75 valves:
034H "Race" Valve - OEM style N75 valve, this is the fastest reacting valve with the higest boost capacity of the N75 valves we've tested.  Also works well for universal application boost control like with our new Stage I and IIc ECU's.  Also known as the "H" valve and came stock on 2.2 Turbo 5-cylinder applications like the 3B and AAN, offers a 1-2 psi boost increase in newer 1.8t and 2.7t applications.

058 F Valve - This valve is stock on all 1.8t motors and is a good stock replacement.

078 B Valve - This valve is stock on all 2.7t including RS4

034 J Valve - This valve is stock on 3B motors and is a good stock replacement.” 


From: Kenneth 
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:59 PM
To: 200q20v at audifans.com 
Subject: N75 WGFV boost valve NFG

Trying to diagnose my low/WG-spring only boost:

So, I just ran the output test on my 200q20v and found that the N75 wastegate frequence valve is not working.  I tried swapping in the one from my parts car, and same thing.  Then I checked the voltage on the connector during the output test, and it appeared to be pretty constant +12v.  There might have been some oscillating, but if so I couldn’t pick it up with my digital multimeter.  There was some fluctuation in the reading, but not what I expected for something that was cycling on and off.  

Then I noticed the connector had +12v anytime the key was on, which I thought was odd so I swapped in a different ECU, but got the same thing.  So then I took both WGFV’s and applied +12v to them, even backwards on the terminals, and didn’t get any hint of movement.  Right now I’m soaking both of them in a bit of PB Blaster.

I think I might be looking at replacing the WGFV with a new or known good one.  Before I do, is there anything I appear to be overlooking or misunderstanding about what I should be seeing at the connector during the output test or with the key “on?”

Is there any way to free up my existing stuck WGFV’s?  I tried pushing down inside it with a thin allen key, but I don’t think I get any movement.  That seems to make sense, because since I’m getting only default/WG spring-only boost levels I believe the valve is stuck open, meaning the piston would already be at the bottom of its stroke since I understand there is a spring inside that puts pressure toward the ports if it’s not stuck.

Now that I have known issue that I can focus on, I’m getting excited to get it fixed.  I still haven’t experienced the full potential of the RS2 parts on it.

Thanks,

Kenneth