N75 WGFV boost valve NFG
Bernie Benz
b.benz at charter.net
Sun Jan 12 21:50:42 PST 2014
No way each our 3 coils could have changed in resistance the same 1x order of magnitude, and none open or shorted! Bentley spec must be off by X10. I’ll remove and check mine out for function tomorrow.
On Jan 12, 2014, at 2:55 PM, Kenneth Keith wrote:
> My valves ohm out at 322 and 323. I dissected one and the piston isn't frozen. The intact one appears to also have a free piston. It appears to me that the coils are not creating a field to move the pistons. I even checked the dissected piston against a magnet and it is ferrous.
>
> I am a little surprised that the coils can be intact, i.e. not open, and still not move the piston, but I suppose if the resistance is 10x what it's supposed to be then that would be the case.
>
> Sent from my Virgin Mobile Android-Powered Device
>
> Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Apparently I am having the same problem for a long time now, low boost.
>> The coil resistance of the WGFV should be 25 to 35 ohms, mine is just under 300 ohms.
>> What is the R of your valves?
>> Read somewhere in Bently that during the output test one side of the coil should be at a constant 12V, apparently the ground side is switched?
>> Haven’t taken mine out of the car yet but will do so when I get aroundtoit.
>> What is the trace number, location of N75 in the Bently schematic?
>>
>> Regards, Bernie
>>
>> On Jan 12, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Kenneth wrote:
>>
>>> Trying to diagnose my low/WG-spring only boost:
>>>
>>> So, I just ran the output test on my 200q20v and found that the N75 wastegate frequence valve is not working. I tried swapping in the one from my parts car, and same thing. Then I checked the voltage on the connector during the output test, and it appeared to be pretty constant +12v. There might have been some oscillating, but if so I couldn’t pick it up with my digital multimeter. There was some fluctuation in the reading, but not what I expected for something that was cycling on and off.
>>>
>>> Then I noticed the connector had +12v anytime the key was on, which I thought was odd so I swapped in a different ECU, but got the same thing. So then I took both WGFV’s and applied +12v to them, even backwards on the terminals, and didn’t get any hint of movement. Right now I’m soaking both of them in a bit of PB Blaster.
>>>
>>> I think I might be looking at replacing the WGFV with a new or known good one. Before I do, is there anything I appear to be overlooking or misunderstanding about what I should be seeing at the connector during the output test or with the key “on?”
>>>
>>> Is there any way to free up my existing stuck WGFV’s? I tried pushing down inside it with a thin allen key, but I don’t think I get any movement. That seems to make sense, because since I’m getting only default/WG spring-only boost levels I believe the valve is stuck open, meaning the piston would already be at the bottom of its stroke since I understand there is a spring inside that puts pressure toward the ports if it’s not stuck.
>>>
>>> Now that I have known issue that I can focus on, I’m getting excited to get it fixed. I still haven’t experienced the full potential of the RS2 parts on it.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Kenneth
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
>>
More information about the 200q20v
mailing list