3B distributor adjustment

[Jay Kempf]

Wow, somehow I managed to get an old, bent from beating, 13mm back there 
and get that thing undone. Removed the bracket, bolt, washer and didn't 
even drop anything. Then pulled the distributor to verify I still had an 
intact gear. I am pretty sure when I did it that I pulled the 
distributor cap off and the hall sensor connector and tied a bunch of 
stuff out of the way. And you are correct I had to look through the back 
of the intake runners between an injector and the runner to see what I 
was going. Fortunately it wasn't all corroded up and it came out with 
fingers after cracking it loose. Nice to clean all that stuff up.

I also have the I think 740mm knock sensors but they were under two part 
numbers. My old ones weren't throwing codes but I was in there and 
wasn't going to leave that rotting stuff in there. The ones I got were 
the right two part numbers and Bosch one with a grey connector and one 
with black so you know which one plugs in where must have checked 10 
times. The front one could be a few inches longer but it works if you 
are careful routing it around under the back of the intake. So I can 
confirm that those work even the $11 a piece ones. And if you swap them 
properly it still works using the wrong color one in the right hole. So 
far no codes since I got my flywheel pin issue solved. Car starts on 
about the third rev now pretty consistently. Changed out the fuel pump 
check valve to get rid of some lazy warm/hot starts.

Car pretty drivable again now. Clutch back to almost normal feel, 
shifter adjusted perfect, new clutch nice and smooth. Few more projects 
but getting closer.

What do you guys think about fixing some minor bottom of the door rust 
vs. getting doors off a donor? The only significant rust is mostly on 
the driver's door low front seems like only the skin maybe 2" x 3". The 
other is on the back of the passenger's rear down low. The only other 
spots that might need some remediation are across the back bottom of the 
hatch glass, mostly just surface. I am inclined to just fix it all as a 
learning experience. I have a nice Eastwood plasma and MIG welder. My 
goal is to fix and seal everything up before fall and just touch up some 
areas that need it. If that seems to be holding then next summer paint.

regards,

jfk

802 272 5868


On 5/25/2017 3:00 PM, 200q20v-request at audifans.com wrote:
>     1. 3B distributor adjustment / Boost (Eric Huppert)
>
>
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>
>
> Grabbed wrenches from work, but even with cruise diaphragm removed could not
> get anything to work!
>
>   
>
> Ended up removing fuel rail/injectors and used a 13mm Snap-on "S" shaped box
> wrench. Worked perfect, probably the easiest way to do it! Injectors were
> just installed last month, so didn't have to worry about new seals.
>
>   
>
> On test drive get a CEL, 2142.: 2142 (Blink Fault Code), 00524 VAG1551/2
> Fault Code Number
> Knock sensor #1 (G61)
> Open or short circuit, Defective sensor Check sensor and wiring
>
>   
>
> Sensor is new Bosch, just replaced. Didn't have this code with old sensors.
> Will swap connectors between the two tomorrow and make sure it follows
> (bought 2 740mm length, so both the same length)
>
>   
>