[A4] Change brakes

[Nicholas Stock]

Whoops, my bad....only front rotors!! Teach me to actually read peoples
posts...LOL.
I haven't seen any plug and play vented rear disc options for the old B5, I
was under the impression that you may have to upgrade to the S4 rear brakes
or something for vented rears. ECS tuning sell a kit for the upgrade, but if
your not tracking your car, then there's probably little point...

Nick

On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 9:58 AM, Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> wrote:

> I was going to mention the rotation of the cylinder..... but OP mentioned
> only the front brakes being done.
>
> That being said..... I know the rear disc is solid.. are there any
> plug-and-play vented disc options?
>
> ~Scott S.
>
> Richard Hurt wrote:
>
>  Nick,
>>
>> We didn't have the special tool, so we just carefully used a large set of
>> pliers to gently rotate the piston being careful to not score them below the
>> seal line.  The special tool would have been a whole lot easier though.  :/
>>
>> Later...
>>  Richard
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 12:51 PM, Nicholas Stock <nickstock at gmail.com<mailto:
>> nickstock at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>    You'll need a special tool to do the rear brakes if it's anything
>>    like my
>>    old B5 1.8T ...as the rear brake pistons needs to be rotated to
>>    push them in
>>    to install new pads. Other than that, you might want to get hold of
>>    a pressurizing bleeder so you can bleed all four calipers by yourself
>>    (instead of asking a friend to pump the pedal for you!)
>>    The front discs are held on by the wheel nuts and should come off
>>    easily.
>>    The rears may need a little more 'encouragement' with a mallet to
>>    come off
>>    the hub.
>>
>>    Best of luck!
>>
>>    Cheers, Nick
>>
>>    On Wed, Oct 1, 2008 at 9:14 AM, Scott Simmons
>>    <indischrot at gmail.com <mailto:indischrot at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>    > No tricks, really.  If you're you gonig to do the fluid, plan on
>>    doing
>>    > all four calipers.  Other than that, keep in mind that it takes
>>    about
>>    > 500 miles for the brake friction coefficient to really .. uh..
>>    > maximize.  In other words, your braking capabilities are reduced for
>>    > awhile after you put on new pads and rotors.
>>    >
>>    > ~Scott S.
>>    >
>>    > Jonathan wrote:
>>    >
>>    > >Hi All,
>>    > >
>>    > >I want to change the front brake rotors, pads and fluid on my
>>    96 A4 2.6V6
>>    > FWD
>>    > >(B5 model 8D chassis). I can get the rotors ($100 each) and
>>    pads ($50 set)
>>    > >from SuperCheap. Just standard stuff I think, is there any pint
>>    getting
>>    > more
>>    > >expensive stuff for normal city driving?  (I'm happy to pay for
>>    longevity
>>    > and
>>    > >quality, but don't need the high performance stuff).
>>    > >
>>    > >Is there any special technique for replacing rotors, pads and
>>    brake fluid
>>    > on
>>    > >these cars? Do you just take the wheel off, then undo a few
>>    more blots,
>>    > and
>>    > >the whole thing comes off?
>>    > >
>>    > >cheers
>>    > >
>>    > >Jon
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