[Biturbos4] HELP!!! Troubleshooting DTCs w/ EPC light

David Kavanagh dak at rochester.rr.com
Sun Nov 28 21:45:01 EST 2004


Ohhh, don't confuse me with the original poster! I just had the 2 lean 
codes... Adam had that laundry list of codes!

Thus Spoke Michael Benno:

> David:
> Please keep us informed of what you find out.
> I personally agree with Grant, that your problem lies with the EPC 
> system (Throttle Plate). Incorrect position could be causing mixture 
> condionts that would cause your O2 sensors and EGT senors to be 
> throwing codes.
>  
> Maybe this will help. I pull this from the self study guides. If your 
> running condition sounds like either of these then you may be in an 
> emergency running mode. HTH...
>  
> Mike Benno
> A6 2.7t
>  
>
> Self-diagnosis/emergency running
>
> If a fault occurs in the accelerator position sender or the wiring, 
> two emergency running programs can be run depending on fault type.
>
> Emergency running program 1: If an accelerator position sender fails:
>
> . Accelerator position limited to a defined value.
> . If a full load is predefined, the power output is increased slowly.
> . In the case of implausible signals between G79 and G185, the lower 
> value is used.
>
> Prerequisite:
>
> The idling speed position must be learnt once by the intact sender.
> . The signal supplied by brake light switch for brake pedal switch F47 
> indicates the idling speed.
> . Comfort functions (CCS) are prohibited.
> . The fault lamp for electric throttle control K132comes on.
>
> Note: At idling speed, the accelerator position senders G79 and G185 
> are not diagnosed. If the plug of the accelerator position sender 
> drops off, no fault is stored in the control unit. The fault lamp for 
> electric throttle control K132 does not come on. The engine runs at 
> idling speed and does not respond to the accelerator pedal.
>
> Emergency running program 2: If both accelerator position senders 
> fail, driver input recognition is not possible:
>
> . The engine only runs at idling speed.
> . The fault lamp for electric throttle control K132 comes on.
>
> Safety function: For safety reasons, the throttle valve is closed as 
> far as a defined angular position when both the accelerator pedal and 
> the brake pedal are depressed. If the brake is pressed first followed 
> by the accelerator pedal, the driver input (torque request) is executed.
>
>
>
> David Kavanagh <dak at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
>
>     Thanks. I did check for boost leaks (see this :
>     http://home.rochester.rr.com/dak/leakcheck/)
>     I ended up replacing the leaking valve cover gasket. I haven't
>     tried to
>     re-pressurize the system since. I also wonder if it is really
>     valid to
>     pressurize at the point I did. I mean, the part between teh MAF
>     and the
>     turbo intake is generally under vacuum. Still, 10 psi can't be a bad
>     thing to test with. If it leaks at that pressure, chances are I'd
>     have a
>     vacuum leak when running!
>     Thanks for the tip on CEL wrt. unplugging the MAF. My apponitment
>     is on
>     the 9th of December, so I do have time to drive it around.
>
>     David
>
>     Thus Spoke Al Adler:
>
>     > Yeah, if your fuel trims are that bad and the MAF is reading
>     that low
>     > it really does look like a MAF, especially since your're
>     gettting the
>     > multiplicative version of the Trim code - if you get the additive
>     > version, its more likely a boost leak. One thing about the trim
>     codes,
>     > you'll need to drive a decent number of miles and cycle the car
>     on and
>     > off a few times to get the CEL to come back on after your
>     experiment.
>     > I made that mistake of clearing the codes and then not driving
>     enough
>     > myself and then took it to the dealer, they just said the MAF was
>     > still ok. As soon as I got it home, the CEL was back and I just
>     ended
>     > up replacing the MAF myself instead of the time and hassel for the
>     > dealer.
>     > As the other guy says do take a look for boost leaks. Given that
>     > you'll be driving at altitude even a small one could be a
>     problem for
>     > the turbos and these cars should probably be checked for leaks at
>     > every oil change. Given how shot your MAF sounds, you may actually
>     > have both problems and the MAF is just covering the leak. I
>     would wait
>     > on the sensors until you see how the MAF pans out; some of them
>     could
>     > be side effects.
>     >
>     > Good luck
>     >
>     > David Kavanagh wrote:
>     >
>     >> yes, I have the problematic Bosch unit (no yellow dot). It reads
>     >> about 107 (not 200), so my fuel trim is pegged at 25% and I get a
>     >> constant CEL. I get these codes (only);
>     >> 17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
>     >> P1128 - 35-00 - -
>     >> 17538 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Lean
>     >> P1130 - 35-00 - -
>     >>
>     >> I have an appointment to get the local dealer to replace the MAF
>     >> (since it is still under waranty). I'd just unplug to make
>     extra sure
>     >> of the problem. I don't want to get there and have them say "that
>     >> isn't the problem, open your wallet".
>     >> So, I could reset the codes (which also resets fuel trim), then
>     turn
>     >> the ignition off, then uplug, then go for a test drive... if it
>     feels
>     >> better, it confirms the diagnosis. If still feels really
>     crappy, then
>     >> I don't know... codes at that point should show now signal from
>     MAF
>     >> (I assume)... sounds like a plan!
>     >>
>     >> David
>     >>
>     >> Thus Spoke Al Adler:
>     >>
>     >>> Well, I've heard of it being done many times in the Audiworld
>     list
>     >>> without any direct consequences other than a CEL. Some people
>     even
>     >>> do drag runs with and without to see which is better. I've
>     done it
>     >>> breifly myself, the problem that I had is the connector was half
>     >>> broken so when I reconnected I had an intermittent short that
>     caused
>     >>> havoc until corrected so I would take care getting the
>     connector on
>     >>> and off. Also the ECU is then using the MAP sensor and O2
>     sensors to
>     >>> control the mixture so those sensors should be working. In
>     your case
>     >>> IIRC, the B1S1 and B2S1 sensors would be important to be
>     working, I
>     >>> think the seemingly failing B1S2 sensor would be less important
>     >>> since its primary purpose is to monitor cat efficiency. All in
>     all
>     >>> I don't think a short test on the MAF would hurt anything, and
>     the
>     >>> refurbished Bosch MAF's for the 2000's are below a $100 many
>     places,
>     >>> including even the dealer so its a good part to check first since
>     >>> the bosch MAF's are very problematic.
>     >>> Al
>     >>>
>     >>> David Kavanagh wrote:
>     >>>
>     >>>> Is it really OK to just unplug the MAF? I've heard differing
>     opinions.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> David
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Thus Spoke Al Adler:
>     >>>>
>     >>>>> Two things - fuel trim codes can indicate a bad MAF. One
>     thing to
>     >>>>> try is to unplug the MAF and see if the car drives better.
>     >>>>> Secondly, I believe B1 is the passenger side - I have a B1 S1
>     >>>>> sensor on its way out so I have done some research on the
>     issue.
>     >>>>> Still, consult a more qualified source before yanking parts. I
>     >>>>> would also check the o2 and egt wiring, as was already
>     mentioned.
>     >>>>> You seem to have a lot of codes from the rear of the engine so
>     >>>>> maybe they'res some damage back there.
>     >>>>>
>     >>>>> Grant wrote:
>     >>>>>
>     >>>>>> Ahh, something I have some experience with ( I was about to
>     >>>>>> write "know something about, but that may be overstating
>     the case
>     >>>>>> a bit....).
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> Let's start with EPC and what it is. EPC is "electronic pedal
>     >>>>>> control". The 00+ S4s are "fly by wire" cars which transmit
>     >>>>>> pedal angle (from a sensor) to a throttle body stepping motor
>     >>>>>> which in turn controls the butterfly angle and opening. The
>     EPC
>     >>>>>> light indicates that your problem is within this system. I've
>     >>>>>> had the same gremlin and, at least, had the "pleasure" of
>     chasing
>     >>>>>> lots of false problems.
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> Given the above, I'd speculate that a large number of your
>     codes
>     >>>>>> (all the O2 and mixture stuff) are related to a different
>     problem
>     >>>>>> (probably O2 sensor). But the last code:
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> "17579 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188)
>     Implausible
>     >>>>>>> Signal
>     >>>>>>> P1171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent"
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> Is exactly the one that I got (and occasionally continue to
>     >>>>>> get). What it means is that the sensor sends back a butterfly
>     >>>>>> angle that seems impossible given the throttle position, load,
>     >>>>>> etc. It can actually be either the pedal sensor or the
>     throttle
>     >>>>>> motor. I never found out *for sure* the source of the problem,
>     >>>>>> but I'd bet heavily on the following culprit, and I bet it
>     will
>     >>>>>> affect all of us sooner or later:
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> The scenario:
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> The throttle body is dirty. The butterfly, as it wipes back
>     and
>     >>>>>> forth, slowly builds up a ridge of dirt in the throttle body,
>     >>>>>> which the butterfly subsequently "catches" on - either in the
>     >>>>>> forward or reverse direction. I speculate ( as does on of
>     Audi's
>     >>>>>> regional training techs) that this is partially caused by a
>     >>>>>> limited throttle angle in normal driving. (e.g.: the car is
>     very
>     >>>>>> powerful and/or I'm a wussy). If the butterfly rarely gets
>     past
>     >>>>>> this point, a ridge of fairly hard dirt builds up and
>     you're on
>     >>>>>> your way to trouble. I got to the point where this happened
>     >>>>>> daily, or at least weekly.
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> A new TB, Audi's suggestion (gee, thanks Audi) was $1000 +
>     >>>>>> install, which made me hesitate and figure all the above
>     out. I
>     >>>>>> did talk to several audi techs, but the only real proof I
>     have is
>     >>>>>> that I made the problem go away on my car and one other.
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> The solution has two parts:
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> 1) Move the butterfly through its motion several times. In
>     >>>>>> general, you get to have fun doing this part (yes, I mean
>     go out
>     >>>>>> and stomp on it - but the goal is butterfly motion, not engine
>     >>>>>> revving, so high loads at low revs are actually best). Make
>     sure
>     >>>>>> you move the butterfly through its motion and back several
>     times,
>     >>>>>> and do this on occasion just to keep it "swept out".
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> 2) If you can, get some gummout into the TB and clean it. The
>     >>>>>> trouble here is getting access to the TB. You need to
>     remove the
>     >>>>>> two snorkels that come up from he intercoolers, and one of
>     them
>     >>>>>> is a bear to get out, due to a snap-fit in a plastic track.
>     I'd
>     >>>>>> hate to break something in there (maybe have your local,
>     friendly
>     >>>>>> garage do it). If you decide to do it, you might look at the
>     >>>>>> "throttle body boot replacement" instructions posted on the
>     tech
>     >>>>>> part of AudiWorld as a sort-of guide to removal.
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> I've had one recurrence after ~ a year, whcih was quickly
>     >>>>>> exorcized by a deep exploration of pedal travel later that
>     day.
>     >>>>>> Feel free to email me with questions, and don't panic. Very
>     >>>>>> likely its not $1000, but rather 2 hours, gummout, and a heavy
>     >>>>>> right foot.
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> Grant
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>> On Nov 27, 2004, at 9:39 PM, Adam Jansen wrote:
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> As I was driving over the Cascades to visit family for the
>     >>>>>>> holiday, the EPC light comes on the the power cuts out
>     (not fun
>     >>>>>>> coming up Snoqualmie Pass!)
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> I dont have my Bently or family albumn with me, but luckily I
>     >>>>>>> did have the laptop and pulled these codes:
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> 17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S2: Open Circuit
>     >>>>>>> P1118 - 35-00 - -
>     >>>>>>> 17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor: B1 S2: Internal Resistance
>     too High
>     >>>>>>> P1114 - 35-00 - -
>     >>>>>>> 16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: No Activity
>     >>>>>>> P0140 - 35-00 - -
>     >>>>>>> 17866 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236): Short to Ground
>     >>>>>>> P1458 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
>     >>>>>>> 17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
>     >>>>>>> P1128 - 35-00 - -
>     >>>>>>> 17538 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Lean
>     >>>>>>> P1130 - 35-00 - -
>     >>>>>>> 17579 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188)
>     Implausible
>     >>>>>>> Signal
>     >>>>>>> P1171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> I am replacing the O2 sensor in the morning (driver's side
>     rear
>     >>>>>>> correct?) but I am worried about the Throttle Actuator and
>     the
>     >>>>>>> System running lean!
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> I stopped when the light came on and then started off
>     again as
>     >>>>>>> the light turned off... it seems that the EPC light with the
>     >>>>>>> above codes (expect the O2 sensors readings) come on only
>     after
>     >>>>>>> the engine has been running on the highway for 30-45 mins,
>     which
>     >>>>>>> just adds to the frustration of trying to fix it!
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> ANY help would be appreciated!
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> Thanks
>     >>>>>>> Adam
>     >>>>>>> 00 S4
>     >>>>>>> Spokane, WA but current stuck in Olympia and hesitant to
>     crawl
>     >>>>>>> over the cascades under limited power
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>     >>>>>>> Biturbos4 mailing list
>     >>>>>>> Biturbos4 at www.audifans.com
>     >>>>>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/biturbos4
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
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>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>>
>     >>>>>
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>     >
>     >
>     >
>
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