[Biturbos4] 2000 S4 Running Hot

[r harout]

so let me ask a question (nervoulsy)

How likely is it that I was have catastrophic turbo
failure if the car has only run with regular oil--but
chnaged frequently?

Inevitable? What are the signs? I will use Mobil 1
moving forward, but the owners before me did not.

Maybe I should order the K04s now so I get them in
time for failure!

--- Grant <gfl1 at optonline.net> wrote:

> Agreed.  Cool is actually not good.  The only
> regular failures I know 
> of are turbo-related failures in which the oil
> coked. Coking takes 
> place WAY above 200deg.  If you find differently,
> please contact the 
> steel industry - they want your technology badly. 
> As to "how hot"?  
> the flash point for mobil1 is >400deg (F).
> 
> Admittedly, the hot underhood temperatures
> contribute to this, but I'm 
> nto sure how much it improves things to extract the
> heat to the 
> radiator, which then blows the heat through the
> engine bay, which .....
> 
> So who's had a turbo failure that ran synthetic,
> cooled down after hard 
> runs, and warmed up in the cold?
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> And who's had a ring job under ANY circumstances. 
> Anyone?
> 
> Grant
> On Aug 29, 2005, at 2:53 PM, costco wrote:
> 
> > A lot of research has been performed with regards
> to cylinder wear vs.
> > coolant temperature in the 70's and 80's amongst
> the automakers.
> >
> > 192 degrees F is actually optimal in most engines.
> More or less is
> > application specific. I would never put a 160
> degree thermostat into an
> > engine that prior had a 180 degree thermostat. In
> many EFI systems that
> > alone could cause the engine to run in open-loop
> "warm up" mode, 
> > running
> > excessively rich and ignoring the oxygen sensors
> for short and long 
> > term
> > fuel maps.
> >
> > I know the biturbos run 'hot' but IMO effort would
> be better spent 
> > finding
> > a way to get more hot air out of the engine bay
> than trying to get the
> > thermostat to open earlier. The biturbo RS4 has an
> extended bellypan 
> > that
> > covers some of the transmission-- this bellypan
> section is obtainable 
> > from
> > the dealer for around $120. It wouldn't take much
> to get it to bolt up
> > behind the stock bellypan, and I would definitely
> give it a try as I
> > wanted to before getting rid of my B5. I never got
> around to doing it.
> >
> > The low pressure area there will probably greatly
> help pull air through
> > behind the front tires.
> >
> > If you have a little more money to toss around I'd
> consider 
> > retrofitting
> > the RS4 oil cooler into the system.
> >
> > Next I'd eliminate the foglights, elongate the
> slits in the front
> > wheelwells to promote more air through the
> intercoolers, and replace 
> > some
> > of the front lower center grill area with
> something freer flowing yet
> > would still provide some protection from rocks
> hitting the a/c 
> > condenser.
> >
> > - Keman
> >
> > On Mon, 29 Aug 2005, Greg Amy wrote:
> >
> >> efficient. After all, we're not talking about
> mid-60's
> >> muscle cars here; these things run fine on 180F
> >> thermostats.
> >>
> >> GregA
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> 
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