[Biturbos4] 2000 S4 Running Hot

Grant gfl1 at optonline.net
Tue Aug 30 06:00:59 EDT 2005


This is probably very good info, but nothing is that clear-cut.
ALL turbos are delicate and fail.  S4 engine bays run hot.  Oil cokes 
at turbo temperatures.  QED.

Its not only the early ones, although I do understand that the oil 
feed/drain plumbing was undersized and thus jy is (to the best of my 
limited knowledge, I dont have the statistics - no one does) largely 
correct.

Grant
On Aug 29, 2005, at 11:41 PM, j y wrote:

> R,
>  
> I mentioned in my msg to you last night - ONLY THE EARLY S4s (like 
> mine) had the risk of catastrophic turbo failure. It had NOTHING to do 
> with the TYPE OF OIL USED - It had to do with a POOR turbo design (the 
> oil inlets and ducts were too small thus restricting oil flow and its 
> cooling ability) that was corrected in the MY 01.5 (2001.5) S4s. So, 
> early S4s that experienced catastrophic turbo failure under, or just 
> beyond the warranty period, were given UPGRADED (K03) replacements by 
> AOA.
>  
> YOU NEED TO FIND OUT WHEN YOUR S4 WAS BUILT. The build date should be 
> on the side of the driver door. The build date on my S4 was 11/99. It 
> was sold as a MY 2000 S4. I CLEARLY own an EARLY S4. There is no need 
> for you to purchase K04s unless you plan to siginificantly modify the 
> power, like I said in my msg to you. I hope this helps clear things up 
> for you.
>
>
> r harout <carrera3_2 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> so let me ask a question (nervoulsy)
>>
>> How likely is it that I was have catastrophic turbo
>> failure if the car has only run with regular oil--but
>> chnaged frequently?
>>
>> Inevitable? What are the signs? I will use Mobil 1
>> moving forward, but the owners before me did not.
>>
>> Maybe I should order the K04s now so I get them in
>> time for failure!
>>
>> --- Grant wrote:
>>
>> > Agreed. Cool is actually not good. The only
>> > regular failures I know
>> > of are turbo-related failures in which the oil
>> > coked. Coking takes
>> > place WAY above 200deg. If you find differently,
>> > please contact the
>> > steel industry - they want your technology badly.
>> > As to "how hot"?
>> > the flash point for mobil1 is >400deg (F).
>> >
>> > Admittedly, the hot underhood temperatures
>> > contribute to this, but I'm
>> > nto sure how much it improves things to extract the
>> > heat to the
>> > radiator, which then blows the heat through the
>> > engine bay, which .....
>> >
>> > So who's had a turbo failure that ran synthetic,
>> > cooled down after hard
>> > runs, and warmed up in the cold?
>> >
>> > Anyone?
>> >
>> > And who's had a ring job under ANY circumstances.
>> > Anyone?
>> >
>> > Grant
>> > On Aug 29, 2005, at 2:53 PM, costco wrote:
>> >
>> > > A lot of research has been performed with regards
>> > to cylinder wear vs.
>> > > coolant temperature in the 70's and 80's amongst
>> > the automakers.
>> > >
>> > > 192 degrees F is actually optimal in most engines.
>> > More or less is
>> > > application specific. I would never put a 160
>> > degree thermostat into an
>> > > engine that prior had a 180 degree thermostat. In
>> > many EFI systems that
>> > > alone could cause the engine to run in open-loop
>> > "warm up" mode,
>> > > running
>> > > excessively rich and ignoring the oxygen sensors
>> > for short and long
>> > > term
>> > > fuel maps.
>> > >
>> > > I know the biturbos run 'hot' but IMO effort would
>> > be better spent
>> > > finding
>> > > a way to get more hot air out of the engine bay
>> > than trying to get the
>> > > thermostat to open earlier. The biturbo RS4 has an
>> > extended bellypan
>> > > that
>> > > covers some of the transmission-- this bellypan
>> > section is obtainable
>> > > from
>> > > the dealer for around $120. It wouldn't take much
>> > to get it to bolt up
>> > > behind the stock bellypan, and I would definitely
>> > give it a try as I
>> > > wanted to before getting rid of my B5. I never got
>> > around to doing it.
>> > >
>> > > The low pressure area there will probably greatly
>> > help pull air through
>> > > behind the front tires.
>> > >
>> > > If you have a little more money to toss around I'd
>> > consider
>> > > retrofitting
>> > > the RS4 oil cooler into the system.
>> > >
>> > > Next I'd eliminate the foglights, elongate the
>> > slits in the front
>> > > wheelwells to promote more air through the
>> > intercoolers, and replace
>> > > some
>> > > of the front lower center grill area with
>> > something freer flowing yet
>> > > would still provide some protection from rocks
>> > hitting the a/c
>> > > condenser.
>> > >
>> > > - Keman
>> > >
>> > > On Mon, 29 Aug 2005, Greg Amy wrote:
>> > >
>> > >> efficient. After all, we're not talking about
>> > mid-60's
>> > >> muscle cars here; these things run fine on 180F
>> > >> thermostats.
>> > >>
>> > >> GregA
>> > > _______________________________________________
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>> > >
>> >
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>>
>>
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