[Biturbos4] Center dash display replacement?

[Brent Henry]

Yes, I have heard that there is actually a "fix" for this problem.  But I
don't know how to identify it!!!

Thanks,
Brent.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Grant Lenahan" <glenahan at vfemail.net>
To: "Brent Henry" <thehenrys at sympatico.ca>
Cc: <biturbos4 at www.audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Biturbos4] Center dash display replacement?


> It probably will happen again. I dont know of any improvement. Maybe
> others have ....
> Grant
> On Mar 8, 2006, at 9:34 AM, Brent Henry wrote:
>
> > If I were to find a used replacement dash, how could I tell that the
> > same
> > problem is not going to happen again?  Is there a version number
> > upgrade/fix?
> >
> > And what can you do about the digital odometer?  Is there a way to set
> > the
> > odo with VAG-COM back to the original mileage (not likely... probably
> > only
> > can reset to zero).
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Brent.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "adam Schwartz" <adamdschwartz at comcast.net>
> > To: "Brent Henry" <thehenrys at sympatico.ca>
> > Cc: <biturbos4 at www.audifans.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 11:47 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Biturbos4] Buying a 2000 S4
> >
> >
> >> Welcome tot he club Brent!
> >>
> >> A good place to get used parts for 'cheap' would be:
> >>
> >> http://dadsauto.com/
> >>
> >> They have most parts, I am sure they could get you a cluster
> >>
> >> good luck,
> >>
> >> Adam
> >>
> >> On Mar 7, 2006, at 11:10 PM, Brent Henry wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Folks,
> >>>
> >>> Well, consider me a full-fledged member now!  The mechanics check
> >>> was good
> >>> and we purchased the car!
> >>>
> >>> Here's an overview of the mechanical review:
> >>> - There was no record from either dealer that the previous owner
> >>> (one-owner)
> >>> ever did the timing belt.  However, the Rick (master mechanic at
> >>> Agincourt)
> >>> used a very cool tool (a long magnifying glass tube with a light
> >>> inside) to
> >>> look at the condition of the timing belt, which looked in good
> >>> condition.
> >>> Although, it is not about to rip apart, it is time to do the belt.
> >>> I will
> >>> be setting something up with my local wrench to get that job done
> >>> (apparently quite a big procedure).
> >>>
> >>> - Using that same magnifying glass tube (apparently worth $5K), we
> >>> peered
> >>> into the V of the engine and could clearly see no coolant leaks.
> >>>
> >>> - Battery tested out good.
> >>>
> >>> - Rick tested the diverter valve... all good.  However, he
> >>> explained that
> >>> this valve is used for a slightly different purpose then what Keman
> >>> described (although similar).  He said that it is used to reduce
> >>> turbo lag.
> >>> In the condition when you let off on the gas-pedal suddenly, an
> >>> increased
> >>> amount of boost pressure is built-up between the turbo and the intake
> >>> manifold.  This diverter valve takes that extra pressure and
> >>> "diverts" it
> >>> back into the turbo's.  This will keep their speed up and thus when
> >>> called
> >>> upon (when you hit the gas again), they will be spinning ready to go!
> >>>
> >>> - No oil leaks.
> >>>
> >>> - Spark plugs looked good.
> >>>
> >>> - Seems like synthetic oil has been used primarily, no brown
> >>> colouration
> >>> inside the oil fill cap.
> >>>
> >>> - Center Dash dot matrix display is toast... looking for a
> >>> replacement...
> >>> does anyone have one... cheap?
> >>>
> >>> - Speakers are all good, put ear up against each one, no rattles...
> >>> my wife
> >>> had her own way to test them... Bon Jovi at 100 decibels!!!
> >>>
> >>> - Stereo, all functions working including CD Changer.
> >>>
> >>> - Rear diff showed no signs of being wet.
> >>>
> >>> - Wheel bearings do not have any noise, but I forgot to ask if they
> >>> were
> >>> originals or not :-(
> >>>
> >>> - O2 sensors had intermittent failures in the VAG code dump.
> >>> Cleared codes,
> >>> will monitor on my VAG-COM.
> >>>
> >>> - Temp gauge starts at left and warms up to the center position.
> >>>
> >>> - Suspension feels smooth, no clunks over bumps.  All rubber bits
> >>> look good.
> >>>
> >>> - Rick's thoughts on turbo's were that these early  models had some
> >>> turbo's
> >>> that had manufacturing flaws, and would come apart prematurely even
> >>> if they
> >>> were not driven hard (although driving them hard would shorten that
> >>> duration).  He said that the turbo's appeared to be original and in
> >>> good
> >>> operating condition, probably good for another 100K.  We tested the
> >>> turbo
> >>> boost with a portable VAG 1552 and saw it around 1650 mBar.  He
> >>> also said
> >>> that if the car was chipped, it would go above 1800.
> >>>
> >>> - No valet key.
> >>>
> >>> It did not require anything at all for the Safety Certification and
> >>> the
> >>> Emissions test was done by the used-car dealer that I bought it
> >>> from (they
> >>> are good for a year).  So it's certified and already on the
> >>> road!!!  And
> >>> what a blast to drive!  Love it already, my wife is overwhelmed
> >>> with joy!!!
> >>> I think we did good :-).
> >>>
> >>> Thanks again to everyone that helped,
> >>> Brent.
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Keman" <keman at interwolf.net>
> >>> To: "Brent Henry" <thehenrys at sympatico.ca>;
> >>> <biturbos4 at www.audifans.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 10:26 AM
> >>> Subject: Re: [Biturbos4] Buying a 2000 S4
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Hi there Henry. Welcome to the biturbo s4 mailing list.
> >>>>
> >>>> i'm one of the lists resident (but somewhat dorment) ex audi
> >>>> techs, and I
> >>>> used to have an '01 S4 Avant. I would recommend you check the
> >>>> following:
> >>>>
> >>>> 100k issues or points of notice:
> >>>>
> >>>> timing belt (and water pump) .. if it's not done now, do it. While
> >>>> I've
> >>> seen
> >>>> them go 130k, I would do them every 60-80k miles. If it does slip or
> >>> break,
> >>>> you'll experience the pain of replacing a lot of intake valves on
> >>>> top of
> >>>> pulling the engine and turbos, as that's the only way to get the
> >>>> heads
> >>> off.
> >>>> If noone can tell you if it's been done or not, peer at the belt
> >>>> by prying
> >>>> back the timing belt cover a few mm and look at the belt with a
> >>> flashlight.
> >>>> If it looks fresh and new and black, it's new. If it looks worn
> >>>> and old,
> >>>> well.. it's not.
> >>>>
> >>>> coolant: Right now it should be fresh and bright pink, not
> >>>> brownish or
> >>>> orangish. Don't base it off the coolant overflow bottle, as it
> >>>> will be
> >>>> somewhat discolored by now. But, those are only $28 at the dealer
> >>>> and I
> >>>> recommend replacing them as they come with a new cap, if/when you
> >>>> do the
> >>>> coolant flush. It's long life coolant, but 100k miles is a long
> >>>> time and
> >>>> that's when it should be flushed. The only drain is the block drain,
> >>> located
> >>>> between the trans and engine directly underneith looking straight up
> >>> through
> >>>> the bellhousing. It's an 8mm green hex key bolt, it will be very
> >>>> tight and
> >>>> need an 8mm hex driver and breaker bar, and needs a new O-ring
> >>>> (available
> >>> at
> >>>> the dealer) once removed. You need a vacuum coolant filler to put
> >>>> coolant
> >>>> into these engines properly, so either borrow one or pay the
> >>>> dealer to do
> >>>> this job for you.
> >>>>
> >>>> Coolant leaks: Inspect for any pink crustys. Particulary look into
> >>>> the V
> >>> of
> >>>> the engine from above once the middle engine dress cover is removed,
> >>> peering
> >>>> in at a 45 degree angle through the small gap below the throttle
> >>>> body. If
> >>>> you see any pink in there, your afterrun pump or coolant hardline is
> >>>> leaking. Also look in back of the engine on the passenger side.
> >>>> Any pink
> >>>> crustys = leak.
> >>>>
> >>>> Battery: If it looks old and original, the cells probably need
> >>>> topping off
> >>>> with distilled water. It's a maintanence item but few actually
> >>>> know that
> >>>> it's supposed to be topped off regularly. Just twist each cell
> >>>> cover off
> >>> and
> >>>> there's a little MIN/MAX bar on each one.
> >>>>
> >>>> Diverter valves: While looking for coolant leaks, start the engine
> >>>> up and
> >>>> reach normal operating temperature. Put your hand on the two black
> >>> roundish
> >>>> looking valves, roughly 3" in diameter that point towards the
> >>>> throttle
> >>> body.
> >>>> There will be small vacuum lines running to each. If you feel either
> >>>> "vibrating" or making fluttering or honking noises at idle, it
> >>>> might be
> >>>> shot. To look further, if you pinch off one of the vacuum lines
> >>>> with a
> >>> pair
> >>>> of pliars and it goes away, that valve is shot. They die often,
> >>> aftermarkets
> >>>> that don't break (they use a piston instead of a diaphram) are
> >>>> available
> >>> for
> >>>> a couple hundred bucks. Highly recommended as I ate through about
> >>>> 4 sets
> >>> of
> >>>> the updated TT ones by 96k miles. They decrease strain on the
> >>>> turbos when
> >>>> you lift off the throttle, so.. when they're dead, well... there's
> >>>> more
> >>>> strain = wear and tear.
> >>>>
> >>>> Oil leaks: Check the rear passenger and front drivers side of the
> >>>> V of the
> >>>> engine. Any wetness would be the legendary timing chain tensioner
> >>>> gaskets.
> >>>> They'll almost never leak so bad as to create a steady drip of
> >>>> oil, but
> >>> they
> >>>> will start to leak and get wetter and wetter, making some mess as
> >>>> mileage
> >>>> goes up. These can be spendy to have replaced, with dealers charging
> >>> around
> >>>> 8 hours of labor for both sides. If you've not done it before, I
> >>>> wouldn't
> >>>> try it yourself as you can drop tiny bits into the engine. I used
> >>>> to use a
> >>>> small magnet to catch them. Valve covers- these start getting wet
> >>>> at 100k
> >>>> miles. Loosening all the 10mm nuts that hold them on and then re-
> >>>> torquing
> >>> to
> >>>> 115 INCH/lbs working from the center nut outwards in a clockwise
> >>>> pattern,
> >>>> slowly but surely, they may stop leaking forever. Or you can just
> >>>> change
> >>>> them.
> >>>>
> >>>> Spark plugs: Even though they're double platinum the engine still
> >>>> eats
> >>> them
> >>>> like candy. Misfire codes are a telltail sign. I'd swap them every
> >>>> 25k
> >>> miles
> >>>> if you like to get on it.
> >>>>
> >>>> Oil: 5W-40 synthetic is a good idea. 0W-40 German Castrol is nice
> >>>> too,
> >>> 0W-30
> >>>> works alright. Basically, anything synthetic is great for this
> >>>> engine, and
> >>>> non synthetic is bad. You can tell what it's had all it's life by
> >>>> looking
> >>> at
> >>>> the oil fill cap. Take it off and look inside. If it's shiny
> >>>> metal, it's
> >>> had
> >>>> synthetic all it's life. If it's crusty and caked and brown, it's
> >>>> not. The
> >>>> more gelatinous cake under the cap, the less synthetic oil it's
> >>>> seen in
> >>> it's
> >>>> life.
> >>>>
> >>>> Interior: The dot matrix display is a common failure. New gauge
> >>>> clusters
> >>>> have bugfixed designs that don't drop dots or lines (usually) but
> >>>> fetch a
> >>>> high price, $750 or so (remanufactured, which is good cuz it's
> >>>> bugfixed).
> >>>> I'm a big fan of Stabilant 22 and CAIG's DeOxit D5, but I've not
> >>>> read of a
> >>>> success using it on this problem. It does resemble a connection
> >>>> type of
> >>>> problem between the display and the driver board, as mine used to
> >>>> drop a
> >>>> line but only when it was really cold out. The gauge cluster comes
> >>>> out
> >>>> without touching the rest of the dashboard, it's held in with a
> >>>> couple of
> >>>> torx screws accessable by popping the top steering wheel trim off.
> >>>> You'll
> >>>> have to reach in behind once the cluster is out a few inches and
> >>>> pop the
> >>>> spring-cam-lock connectors (all three) on the back kind of blind
> >>>> to get it
> >>>> all the way out.
> >>>>
> >>>> Speakers: If they rattle with bass, they're probably in need of
> >>> replacement.
> >>>> The Bose Symphony audi system doesn't take kindly to aftermarket
> >>>> replacements (it ends up sounding like crap) and the factory
> >>>> replacements
> >>>> are around $90 each. In a sedan, the rear speakers are accessed from
> >>> above,
> >>>> not below. Kind of a pain. The door panels are much easier to
> >>>> remove.
> >>>>
> >>>> Stereo: If it changes channels on you, it's posessed. They do that
> >>>> sometimes. If it stops working, it'll need replacement. They've
> >>>> gotten
> >>> MUCH
> >>>> cheaper last I checked. < $200 at the dealer now for a reman if you
> >>> provide
> >>>> your old one as the core.
> >>>>
> >>>> Rear diff: Sometimes the seals on the output shafts get a little
> >>>> wet.
> >>>>
> >>>> Wheel bearings: They'll be either freshly replaced, or needing it
> >>>> soon.
> >>> They
> >>>> like to abandon ship at 100k miles. But they do so rather
> >>>> gracefully,
> >>> giving
> >>>> you 10-15k miles of warning with a steady increase in rattling
> >>>> noise.
> >>>>
> >>>> O2 sensors: These don't like to live forever. There are 4. The
> >>>> rear 2 are
> >>>> easy. The front 2 ... well. Only easy if you've done them before.
> >>>>
> >>>> Coolant temp sensor: These get flakey. They're easy, check out
> >>>> audiworld
> >>> for
> >>>> instructions. If the temp display is anything but in the middle at
> >>>> normal
> >>>> operating temps, the sensor is toast.
> >>>>
> >>>> Suspension arms: If it clunks over bumps, it'll need them. I
> >>>> recommend the
> >>>> VW Passat suspension arm kit from the dealer, it's 4 arms for the
> >>>> price of
> >>> 1
> >>>> audi one, and it's the identical part in every way shape and form,
> >>> including
> >>>> the part #. These can be installed without an alignment of any sort.
> >>>>
> >>>> If well taken care of, 5k synthetic oil changes religiously,
> >>>> allowed to
> >>> warm
> >>>> up (one notch up on the oil temp gauge) before you get into the
> >>>> boost
> >>> [which
> >>>> can take an agonizingly long time], and cooled down (go slow the
> >>>> last
> >>> couple
> >>>> of miles) when hot, the turbos will last 200k miles. If oil
> >>>> changes get
> >>>> skipped, you like to get into the boost while backing out of your
> >>>> driveway
> >>>> on wintery mornings, and you drive around in 100 degree heat like
> >>>> a madman
> >>>> and arrive at your destination and flick the key off and walk away
> >>>> immediately, the turbos won't make it to that point.
> >>>>
> >>>> There are failures unfortunately, and when they do fail it's
> >>>> talked about
> >>>> very vocally because the price is extreme: $4-5k to have them
> >>>> replaced.
> >>> They
> >>>> must be done by the pair. If you chip it, it's going to add
> >>>> another factor
> >>>> to this equation (heat) and make it more likely to fail (but not
> >>> necessarily
> >>>> so with much care and dilligence).
> >>>>
> >>>> I liked to clean my climate control buttons if they got sticky
> >>>> with 70%
> >>>> isopropyl alcohol. I'd just spray it on and wipe it off with a
> >>>> cotton
> >>> cloth
> >>>> a minute later, padding gently to soak it up. Repeat until the
> >>>> button
> >>> frees
> >>>> itself. Someone else mentioned just water, which works too but
> >>>> sometimes
> >>>> takes a bit too long to dry and also might not attack the dried out
> >>>> Coca-Cola sufficiently well.
> >>>>
> >>>> That about sums it up for my sunday morning. Hehehe. They're great
> >>>> cars, I
> >>>> miss mine still and I've got an '05 S4 Avant. I had mine for 96k
> >>>> miles
> >>>> before FOOLISHLY selling it in prestine condition.
> >>>>
> >>>> Oh and just for reference: The car should come with two
> >>>> transmitter key
> >>>> fobs, a valet key (it won't unlock the trunk), and a plastic thin
> >>>> wallet
> >>>> key. (4 keys total). The radio manual should have the security code
> >>> sticker
> >>>> in it. Don't let the dealer try to tell you that they can't do
> >>>> anything
> >>>> about those being missing- they can cut/make/reprogram them all with
> >>> blanks
> >>>> on hand and I wouldn't sign for the car unless they hand you all
> >>>> four.
> >>>>
> >>>> Remember: Be picky. It's an Audi. The engineers were picky,
> >>>> there's no
> >>>> reason why the customers can't be. :)
> >>>>
> >>>> Keman
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>> From: "Brent Henry" <thehenrys at sympatico.ca>
> >>>> To: <biturbos4 at www.audifans.com>
> >>>> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:35 PM
> >>>> Subject: [Biturbos4] Buying a 2000 S4
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I have put a down payment on a 2000 S4 today.  It has 170,000kms
> >>>>> (or just
> >>>>> over 100,000 miles), but appears to be in excellent condition...
> >>>>> I gave
> >>> it
> >>>>> an extremely thorough review inside and out with a lengthy test
> >>>>> drive.  I
> >>>>> have also scheduled an appointment at the local Audi dealer to run
> >>>>> a
> >>>>> complete 300 point check on the car before I make my final
> >>>>> decision.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I would like to hear some feedback on what to look out for in these
> >>> cars,
> >>>>> with regard to electrical or mechanical weakness for cars with
> >>>>> this much
> >>>>> mileage.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The only things that I noticed wrong with the car, was that the
> >>>>> trip-computer display was a little scrambled (intermittent)...  I
> >>> believe
> >>>>> that this could be cured with an application of Stabilant-22
> >>>>> contact
> >>>>> enhancer -- on all of the dash connections?  How easy is it to
> >>>>> remove
> >>> the
> >>>>> dash?  Is there any procedures listed on the web somewhere?  The
> >>>>> other
> >>>>> thing was that some of the Climate Control button movements were a
> >>> little
> >>>>> sticky... I suspect spilled coffee from a poorly placed in-dash cup
> >>>>> holder?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks for any feedback that you can provide.
> >>>>> Brent Henry.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
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> >>> Biturbos4 at www.audifans.com
> >>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/biturbos4
> >
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