Fw: Audi hesitation

[Suffolk]

Responding to this question:
    At 06:40 PM 8/17/2000 -0400, Scott Rollins wrote:
    >My 4000csq hesitates on acceleration so much that you have to peg the
gas
    >to the floor for it to take off somewhat smooth.  The car had not been
    >started for 2 years until i came into it, after my friend blew up the
    >motor( how i came into possesion with it) i replaced the motor but the
    >throttle is sticky.  I put injector cleaner in it the plugs are new,
and i
    >took off the plunger plate(silver disc in airbox and cleaned
everything,
    >that helped a little, i think i may after rebuild the other side under
the
    >fuel metering device, before i go to that trouble though, any
suggestions,
    >faulty fuel filter maybe?
----- Original Message -----
From: Suffolk <suffolk at erols.com>
To: <scottrollins at hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 2:06 AM
Subject: Audi hesitation

Check the potetiometer on the front of the fuel distributor.
> -Scott Suffolk at erols.com
> Just an idea to try:
> My 86 4Q failed me after jamming on the brakes while driving on cruise
> control.
> The real culpret was a dirty fuel system. Backfires, etc.,
> Hesitation, stalling, full throttle yielded poor response.  If
> any.......................
>
> On the  front of the fuel distributor facing the steel sub frame where the
> hood rest on,
> where all the braided wires go to the injectors, is a
> small bolt on (with two long regular screws) plastic piece ~2" x 4"either
> grey or Black.
> This gizmo kept my car from starting with out either (starting fluid)
being
> sprayed into the
> black rubber honeycomb air intake shroud.  There is a little plug
connector
> with two wires sticking out of the side.
> Get a voltmeter and set it to measure Ohms.  Take connector off to expose
> two electrical contact plug(s) or contacts.
> Touch both terminal plugs that stick out of the "potentiometer" to measure
> Ohms.
> If the value is a constant .28 or .15 or something the unit is okay.
> Mine yielded a value that grew greater as I measured it untill the
> continuity was broken.
> (a flashing value)  That meant the little screw on plastic piece did not
> keep the correct pressure
> difference between the top of the fuel distributor and the bottom of the
> fuel distributor.
>
> Now the dealer only sells the whole fuel distributor for $350 back in
1994.
> That is the only way to get one grey or black plastic "Potentiometer".
>
> I went to a salvage yard with the Ohm meter.  They didn't have an Audi 5
> cylinder fuel distrubutor,
> but the VW Quantum 5 cylinder solved the problem for $35 and still runs
> today. ~400,000 miles.
>
> TEST the unit before you buy by touching the meter to the two terminals
and
> getting a constant resistance
> reading value of .28 or .18 or .15.
> The first one in the bin tested bad by having values that quickly ran to
> infinity or a flashing value for no continuity.
> A little piece of dirt restricting the fuel flow through the pin hole in
the
> potentiometer will screw it up.
> That's all I know.
> -Scott Suffolk at erols.com
>
>
>
> I took the advice of many lister who responded as well as the Bentley
> manual and checked the thermo-time swith and cold start valve.  Here are
> my results:  The switch at the cold start valve reads approximately 10.6
> volts then drops to approximately 7, then to 3 and then 0 all in a
> matter of 3 seconds or so.  The temperature of the coolant was below
> 86F.
>
> I then removed the cold start valve and found that it did spray an even
> mist of fuel for approximately 3 seconds, however it does not continue
> to pulse.  I was able to get the car to run by spraying starting fluid
> into the throttle body.  This leads my to believe that it's definately
> not getting enought fuel when cold.  The car runs fine after warming up
> for 5 minutes or so.
>
> Now, what should I check next?  What controls how lond the cold start
> valve should spray fuel, how long it stops, and when it restarts?  From
> what I read, the pulse relay only comes into effect when the car is
> warm.  Is that correct or could that be the problem, and if so, how can
> I check that relay?
>
> Any help out there would be greatly appreciated.  Sorry if I'm a bit
> long, but I figured the more information I could provide, the better
> someone might be able to help me.  Thank in advance.
>
> Adam Brodeur
> 84 4KSQ
>
>
>
> If you don't mind spending some cash, why not just replace the injectors?
> 200 bucks that'll feel really nice in any case...
>
> At 06:40 PM 8/17/2000 -0400, Scott Rollins wrote:
> >My 4000csq hesitates on acceleration so much that you have to peg the gas
> >to the floor for it to take off somewhat smooth.  The car had not been
> >started for 2 years until i came into it, after my friend blew up the
> >motor( how i came into possesion with it) i replaced the motor but the
> >throttle is sticky.  I put injector cleaner in it the plugs are new, and
i
> >took off the plunger plate(silver disc in airbox and cleaned everything,
> >that helped a little, i think i may after rebuild the other side under
the
> >fuel metering device, before i go to that trouble though, any
suggestions,
> >faulty fuel filter maybe?
> >
> >tia
> >
> >scott rollins
> >scottrollins at hotmail.com
>
>