crank pulley bolt and other fun

[Todd Phenneger]

Luke,

   The better way to pry is down rather than up.  If you take off the front bumper (takes like 4-minutes.  the Torx heads are behind the reflector next to the blinker)  then you have direct access to that bolt with a 24mm socket (I think its 24, might be 27mm) and a breaker bar.  THe put on a 3 ft extension on the breaker bar  (make SURE its at LEAST 1/2" equipment)  and apply pressure on the end.   I used my jack handle as an extension.  Popped right off.  THen after about one turn you can take off the extension and just use the wrench.  Save the extension tool you rented for torquing it down.   BTW...if you dont want the holding tool, you can just stick a bolt in through a hole on the driver side of tranny that enters a hole in the flywheel near TDC.  That breaks it loose, then roll car in 5th gear to get to TDC before you remove it.  Stop car at TDC, remove bolt and pulley, replace stuff, install pulley and bolt leaving turning enough that its say 90% in.  Now get timing belt on all the way and pre tension.  Now tighten pulley till its snug.  (Just snug as you still dont want to lose TDC)  Now tighten Timing Belt making sure that at TDC that dot on the Cam sprocket is at top of Valvecover.  If you have valve cover off then its about one tooth above the head I think.  Once everything is tight and checked for alignment, re-insert bolt or your holding tool, and tighen bolt Tight with breaker bar.  as Tight as you can on your own.  THen use that 1ft extension and put 250lb Ft at the end of extension.  (I THINK its 250, double check)  Without that extension its like 330lb/ft or very close and most torque wrenches dont go that high, hence the extension.  You've got it from here. 

  HOpe that wasnt more info than you wanted.   Best of luck.

l8r

  Todd


  

  Luke Rickert <rickert at engr.orst.edu> wrote: 
I am in the process of replacing the timing belt on my 4kcsq, but there
are some unresolved issues. I have rented the tools to hold the pulley
and the special extension but I can't seem to generate enough force to
get the bolt free. I have tried using a floorjack on the extension tool,
but it just lifts the engine. I am going to try fixing the distance
between the jack and the pulley with high-strenth webbing and see if
that will do the trick. Aside from not have a 1'' drive breaker bar, I
don't think that there is room under the car to use an extension on the
special tool when the engine is installed. Any suggestions? I suppose
I could go find a monster socket and a breaker bar, but since I am
paying for these tools I would like to use them.

When I do eventually get the pulley off, what Loctite should I use? The
stuff it calls for in Bentley (loctite 573 flange sealant) is not easy
to find here in Corvallis. Will it make it impossible to get the pulley
off in the future if I use a normal thread locking compound?

Has anyone used the bolt through the bellhousing/flywheel method which
is disscussed in the archives? It sounds like a great idea, I am sorry I
didn't see it before renting these tools.

I did manage to get the control arm and sway-bar bushing changed out and
have replaced the front ball joints and the water pump in the last few
days, so my time has not been completely wasted, but I would really like
to get this stinkin' bolt off sometime in the near future.

thanks for the help

Luke

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Todd Phenneger
    83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt)
    84' 4ktq  fun but I'm sick of CIS.


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