need of 5K window switches, help.

[Ameer Antar]

buying new ones is fine, but you can rebuild the switches if you wanted to. 
I did this to all of them in my '84 5kT, which solved all my switch 
problems, including a switch that wouldn't turn off and switches w/ dead 
lights. You just pry off the outer ring. Then you can see the pivot point 
for the switch cap. Pry the switch cap off at the pivot points. There are 2 
springs [they don't pop out at you] that are in the bottom of the switch 
cap. These springs press on 2 ball bearings which pivot a see-saw shaped 
switch contact underneath. Just pull out all these parts.  Clean it w/ a 
good contact cleaner bath and use some emery paper or file on green 
corroded contact areas till everything is bright. Get everything clean in 
there w/ some alcohol, so no junk gums everything back up. The dead LED's 
can be replaced w/ some soldering. The symbol faces can be replaced w/ good 
ones in the switch cap. Put everything back together and use a little lube 
to make action smooth. You can actually adjust how the switch feels by 
bending the see-saw shaped contacts wider or smaller. For lube I used 
silicone in some, but then used anti-seize stuff, since it's conductive. 
There are contact lubes at RS and other electronic shops. Just a suggestion.

-ameer
'84 5kT

At 11:45 AM 11/8/00, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>         After going thru my pile of 5K window switches I found many had high
>resistance (20-60 Ohms instead of acceptable .8 - 1.5) and were well worn
>due to being from driver's control panels.
>
>         I know someone must have piles of these switches that they could 
> part
>with a few.  I'm looking for two low profile c. '85-'88 passenger or rear 
>door
>switches with clips.  Sealed or unsealed type with part #'s 443 959 855 "D"
>"F" or even blue base "G".
>
>         Pretty please!
>
>         Thanks.
>
>
>-------------------------
>Peter Gotseff
>pag at hydrosphere.com
>-------------------------